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Fitting Gilles Rear Sets

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danf1234

When fitting Gilles Rear sets to the bike, so I need to shorten any of the rear brake pipe work or hosing? Or can I keep the system sealed and not have to drain any fluid and just relocate the master cylinder and reservoir?

I want to avoid draining the rear brake at any price because I have only just got it right!!!
 
Anyone please.

I need to know before I part with the best part of 300 squids!
 
Fitted some myself last year, easy to fit but a ***** to get the rear brake working properly. My first effort was great for a couple of days, then when fluid got hot, brake started to bind, disc got hotter, binding got worse, noticed it before it locked wheel, but could have been nasty. Took it to Eric Wilks, bike mechanic, he sorted it for me. No probs since.
I have fitted rearsets to several bikes previously without probs, the Ape is a bit different!
Well worth the effort though. Good luck!

IMG_2581.jpg
 
It has a special banjo bolt that sits on the M/c so you have to open the pipework.
The only pipe you need to shorten a little is the rubber hose from M/C to resevoir.

Free play on pushrod is critical hence why people get locking on brakes.
 
I've had the same problem on fitting Harris rearsets - the brakes are fine, but the rear brake light is on all the time as the brake pedal is not coming up (by approx 1-2 mm) to meet the brakelight switch.

Spoke to Southern Cross who said I would have to back off the adjuster and then put something between the two to make the contact. I jammed a small piece of card in it the other day, and it caused my rear brake to bind as well :angry
 
Just make sure you shorten the thread enough to leave some play otherwise you will get binding.

The other slight git, was the brake light switch which needed modding (Cutting exactly with snips very slowly until it was perfect) to get the correct travel and length on the operating pin. I also had to slightly bend the "L" shaped bracket it locates in to get the light on at the correct time, not a massive job just fiddly.

I also set the lever slightly lower than normal so as not to rest my foot on it when I was "cruising". I have to say since I fitted the Gilles my rear brake has been superb, bleeding it was a slight pain, but in the end took about 20minutes of faffing to get all the bubbles out........Job done, job's a good un.

By the way MKW, how comes your brake fluid has gone black so quick, are you using petrol in the pipe rather than DOT4....?

End Result......

RHSGilless.jpg
 
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Just make sure you shorten the thread enough to leave some play otherwise you will get binding.

The other slight git, was the brake light switch which needed modding (Cutting exactly with snips very slowly until it was perfect) to get the correct travel and length on the operating pin. I also had to slightly bend the "L" shaped bracket it locates in to get the light on at the correct time, not a massive job just fiddly.

I also set the lever slightly lower than normal so as not to rest my foot on it when I was "cruising". I have to say since I fitted the Gilles my rear brake has been superb, bleeding it was a slight pain, but in the end took about 20minutes of faffing to get all the bubbles out........Job done, job's a good un.

By the way MKW, how comes your brake fluid has gone black so quick, are you using petrol in the pipe rather than DOT4....?

End Result......

GillesBrakeSs.jpg
Don't know why my fluids gone dark mate, only been in since last summer. Brake works great so i'm leaving well alone!
 
Strange, perhaps it's the type or make of brake fluid that reacts with the short rubber hose to the cylinder from the ressie........tis a great mod though.....:thumbup
 
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