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First Mille - Clutch Query (and a few others)

M

Mac3

Joined May 2012
6 Posts | 0+
Cumbria, UK
Hi All
Hope it's OK to post this here (new to the Forum) and apologies if this is a repeated thread (had a quick look and couldn't find the answer).
Bought my first Mille yesterday :biggrin - an 01 with 20,000 miles on it. Wish I'd bought one years ago.
As with all new bikes there's a few wee issues - one is with the clutch.
When I give it a handful and it's in peak torque zone the clutch is slipping - not really bad but noticable.
The clutch lever also only reaches it's "bite" point at the very end of it's travel. Incidentally, the clutch feels very light (after my '96 Blade with uprated clutch springs anyway) so I'm not sure if it's been upgraded or not.
What should I start with guys ..... clutch bleed or bite the bullet and fit new plates & springs and roughen up the steel plates with emery ...?

Also what oil do you guys run these on - semi or fully synth oil ...? Not sure what's in it so was wondering if there's clutch slip issues with fully synth ...?

Final question (for now). It's fitted with a Spyball Immobiliser - not sure if this is a factory fit or aftermarket. I'm OK mechanically but clueless with electrics - can these be removed easily or am I best leaving it fitted or getting a sparkie to removed it ...?

Thanks in advance for the answer guys.

Cheers
Mac

PS I'm based in Cumbria - if anyone else up North fancies a ride out some time please give me a shout.
 
Mac said:
Hi All
Hope it's OK to post this here (new to the Forum) and apologies if this is a repeated thread (had a quick look and couldn't find the answer).
Bought my first Mille yesterday :biggrin - an 01 with 20,000 miles on it. Wish I'd bought one years ago.
As with all new bikes there's a few wee issues - one is with the clutch.
When I give it a handful and it's in peak torque zone the clutch is slipping - not really bad but noticable.
The clutch lever also only reaches it's "bite" point at the very end of it's travel. Incidentally, the clutch feels very light (after my '96 Blade with uprated clutch springs anyway) so I'm not sure if it's been upgraded or not.
What should I start with guys ..... clutch bleed or bite the bullet and fit new plates & springs and roughen up the steel plates with emery ...?

Also what oil do you guys run these on - semi or fully synth oil ...? Not sure what's in it so was wondering if there's clutch slip issues with fully synth ...?

Final question (for now). It's fitted with a Spyball Immobiliser - not sure if this is a factory fit or aftermarket. I'm OK mechanically but clueless with electrics - can these be removed easily or am I best leaving it fitted or getting a sparkie to removed it ...?

Thanks in advance for the answer guys.

Cheers
Mac

PS I'm based in Cumbria - if anyone else up North fancies a ride out some time please give me a shout.
Click to expand...

I had the same with my mille when I first bought her so I ended up buying a (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BARNETT-C...22?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item5ae04ea726) barnett racing clutch, I was told the weak points in this bike are the clutch and the rear brake...tho im assuming they ment sprag and main clutches lol, also my biting point is way out on my bike to, it was really worrying me as it was a new clutch. and theres no real adjustment...but took it to a mechanic and he said it might just be the characteristics of the clutch, and being a racing clutch it does drag when the leaver is pulled in...theres is a jet mod you can do, but only read a little about it but might be worth a search, and also got to be worth a bleed...cant hurt can it?

thats the only advice I can give you mate, im no mechanic...though I do crash repair cars, so cant really help you with your oil or immobiliser question...


ride safe.

Olli.
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Thanks Olli - info much appreciated.
I've had a look in the clutch reservoir now and the fluid looks just like black water - so I'll start with a bleed and take it from there.
Had a grand ride out today to scrub in a new pair of Diablos ....... loving the bike. Why didn't someone tell me they were so good for the real world years ago ...?
Have a great Bank Holiday Weekend.
Cheers
Gav
 
Mac said:
Thanks Olli - info much appreciated.
I've had a look in the clutch reservoir now and the fluid looks just like black water - so I'll start with a bleed and take it from there.
Had a grand ride out today to scrub in a new pair of Diablos ....... loving the bike. Why didn't someone tell me they were so good for the real world years ago ...?
Have a great Bank Holiday Weekend.
Cheers
Gav
Click to expand...

Gav

Black clutch fluid is pretty much standard especially with the original clutch slave. It may not indicate a problem. Bleed it anyway it only takes a few minutes, but it might be black again in a few days.

Rob :)
 
Gav

Immobilisers were not factory fitted to gen 1 bikes. Is it just a passive immobiliser or is it combined with an alarm?

Some alarms cause problems (draining the battery) and you'll see elsewhere on here that they often end up being removed.

I'd say if yours works and does not cause problems with the original electrics then leave it on the bike. It might save a few £ on your insurance. Otherwise you'll need to get friendly with a good auto-electrician!

Rob :)
 
Mac said:
Thanks Olli - info much appreciated.
I've had a look in the clutch reservoir now and the fluid looks just like black water - so I'll start with a bleed and take it from there.
Had a grand ride out today to scrub in a new pair of Diablos ....... loving the bike. Why didn't someone tell me they were so good for the real world years ago ...?
Have a great Bank Holiday Weekend.
Cheers
Gav
Click to expand...

lol the prob with the bike is that people tend to go for bhp and top end power...the mille is great but is middle of the road on those fronts, so spose alot of people would have over looked the mille, the bike fits me perfect and the more and more mods I do make me smile alittle more every time I open her up....tho would love a go on a rsv4 :D im aprillia all the way now....

Olli.
 
Cheers Apostrophe ...... do you reckon fit a new clutch seal or upgrade the slave ....? The lever pressure is fine for me so would upgarde for better lever feel / reliability or a more defined bike point.

I think the alarm will have to go - it's got both an alarm and immobiliser. Auto electrician I think then ......

Olli - yeah I feel into that mag BHP chasing ***** ...... for real world roads that torque on tap in 3rd is just the dogs.
 
Mac

Genuine clutch slave seals were about £25 when I looked so I spent nearly £90 on a new Oberon. I like the lighter lever pressure. I don't think any of the replacement slaves will improve the feel compared with a fully working original clutch slave. The Oberon should be more reliable than original but hard to prove since they've not been around so long. Oberon has a lifetime warranty too. Speak to Tash on here to get one at a good price if you want one.

Rob :)
 
is it new fresh oil in your bike mate ?. i find mine slips a bit to but only after oil change but it goes away after a couple of good runs .i use fully synthetic oil always .as long as its bled up right black fluid is standard mate it seems. also one to look out for is vibes through the clutch lever could mean worn bearing in the pressure plate .can collapse if not checked will cause some free play in system also
 
Thanks for all the input and advice guys - very much appreciated.
I bled the clutch yesterday and it's made a bit of an improvement.
I'm changing the oil anyway so we'll see if that makes an improvement as well. If not I'll change the Jet, the Slave Cylinder Seal and the Clutch Plates in that order.
Does anyone know a bike bike electrician in the NW so I can get the immobiliser removed.
Cheers
Gav
 
Mac said:
Thanks for all the input and advice guys - very much appreciated.
I bled the clutch yesterday and it's made a bit of an improvement.
I'm changing the oil anyway so we'll see if that makes an improvement as well. If not I'll change the Jet, the Slave Cylinder Seal and the Clutch Plates in that order.
Does anyone know a bike bike electrician in the NW so I can get the immobiliser removed.
Cheers
Gav
Click to expand...
hi bud take it out yourself mate just follow the wires and remove it dead easy i took my datatool evo out in 30 mins no problems since
 
Cheers Biff - will be doing a fairings off clean soon so will have a look at the wiring for the alarm/immob then.
Is it just me or does electrickery give anyone else the shudders ....?
 
not to good with electrical problems either mac and the more up to date bikes these days have too many built in fancy **** just cant get my head round some of them ,thats where guys like griff come in to there own . i guess i could do most things my self if i put my mind to it but when you need it done on a lap-top then thats me ****** lol .we can all be good at most things but leave the real tech stuff to the guys that know there trade . but with the alarm removal just follow the wires back to where they go then just snip them of at the join clean and tape the loom again keep it neat and tidy and should be job done mac .:thumbup
 
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