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eeek honda h100 wont run any bright ideas

Joined Jul 2008
193 Posts | 0+
Rossendale
i know the names offensive, but girlfriend has a h100 shes learning to ride on but it has some kind of intermittant problem, it starts and revs happily to 10k in neutral.

then it runs ok for a short indeterminate amount of time pulling to maybe 7 or 8k then loses all power and wont go above walking pace on the flat. Turn it off wait a while runs again for a bit and so on and so on.

Ive Cleaned carb, new filter, new plug, loads of fuel through tap and float bowl.

now been to "three proffessionals" hmmmm who have cleaned carb, took filter out took baffle out, decoked exaust, fitted new exaust , disconnected two stroke pump and run it on pre-mix etc etc :jack proclaimed it fixed only for it to conk 800yards later.

im putting my money on electricals, but every shop we ask keeps saying fuel, even though the carb is now cleaner than a freshly shaved minge and wont even look at the electrics

any ideas
 
Silly question maybe, but has anyone changed the throttle cable during all of this? Does the problem come and go without any particular rhyme or reason?
 
yeah

cables fine mate, moves the carb and the oil pumps synched, or was till the spanner monkey had a go. Seems to fail as soon as its fully or close to warmed up, most of the time?? can run for a mile sometime two, sometimes less than half a mile :dunno
 
Bare with me, but the cable may appear fine, but has a new one been put on? It is a cheap an easy thing to eliminate. I had a AR125 years ago and it did a very similar thing. The cable was partially frayed inside, and every now and then it would wedge itself inside of the outer, which resulted in the carb flooding = no power or alternatively carb not opening = no power. The throttle however still felt like it was able to pull and return.

Has the cdi unit been checked/changed?
 
i will check out the cable again just in case, no harm in trying

the cdi has not been checked, ive got borrowed a multimeter , just not sure what to check for. Was wondering about cdi myself, or maybe coil breaking down, ht lead seems fine, well at least its not shocking me when i touch it :)
 
They don't have camshafts heroblob. Kaiser, have you taken the bike out and then removed the plug at the road side when the problem arises to see what it looks like? I'd hope one of the places you've taken the bike to have done this, but you never know :thumbup

The problem you have with static tests is that the bike is not under load conditions.

If in doubt, Haynes manual time! :thumbup
 
not plug chopped it at stopage time! what am i looking for ???

got a haynes manual, so it looks like im after a strobe to check the timing next :-(

it does seem to give up the first time it faces a hill, beyond that there is little ryhme or reason to it
 
You are looking to see what condition the plug is in Kaiser after the problem has started. If you take a look in the Haynes, I seem to remember in two strokes Haynes manuals they have six or eight pictures of different plug conditions to point you in the right direction. The best way would be to fit a new plug before trying. Compare the one you removed and the new plug.

Other thing that may be worth checking if they haven't already, is the carb mounting rubber.

Be interested to hear what condition the new plug is in after a run out until the problem starts :thumbup
 
will try and give it a going over this weekend, with a new plug etc and see what i come up with cheers guys
 
Found this for you Kaiser, hope it helps squire :thumbup

Oil Fouled
oil_fo5.jpg

Too much oil is entering the combustion chamber. This is often caused by piston rings or cylinder walls that are badly worn. Oil may also be pulled into the chamber because of excessive clearance in the valve stem guides. If the PCV valve is plugged or inoperative it can cause a build-up of crankcase pressure which can force oil and oil vapors past the rings and valve guides into the combustion chamber.

Overheated
overhe10.jpg

A clean, white insulator firing tip and/or excessive electrode erosion indicates this spark plug condition. k This is often caused by over advanced ignition, timing, poor engine cooling system efficiency (scale, stoppages, low level), a very lean air/fuel mixture, or a leaking intake manifold. When these conditions prevail, even a plug of the correct heat range will overheat.

Insulator Glazing
insula11.jpg

Glazing appears as a yellowish, varnish-like color. This condition indicates that spark plug temperatures have risen suddenly during a hard, fast acceleration period. As a result, normal combustion deposits do not have an opportunity to "fluff-off" as they normally do. Instead, they melt to form a conductive coating and misfire will occur.

Pre-Ignition
preign8.jpg

Usually one or a combination of several engine operating conditions are the prime causes of pre-ignition. It may originate from glowing combustion chamber deposits, hot spots in the combustion chamber due to poor control of engine heat, cross-firing (electrical induction between spark plug wires), or the plug heat range is too high for the engine or its operating conditions.

Normal
sparkn14.jpg

Combustion deposits are slight and not heavy enough to cause any detrimental effect on engine performance. Note the brown to greyish tan color, and minimal amount of electrode erosion which clearly indicates the plug is in the correct heat range and has been operating in a "healthy" engine.

Gap Bridging
gap_br6.jpg

Rarely occurs in automotive engines, however, this condition is caused by similar conditions that produce splash fouling. Combustion deposits thrown loose may lodge between the electrodes, causing a dead short and misfire. Fluffy materials that accumulate on the side electrode may melt to bridge the gap when the engine is suddenly put under a heavy load.

Splash Fouled
splash4.jpg

Appears as "spotted" deposits on the firing tip of the insulator and often occurs after a long delayed tune-up. By-products of combustion may loosen suddenly when normal combustion temperatures are restored. During hard acceleration these materials shed from the piston crown or valve heads, and are thrown against the hot insulator surface.

Detonation
detona9.jpg

This form of abnormal combustion has fractured the insulator core nose of the plug. The explosion that occurs in this situation apples extreme pressures on internal engine components. Prime causes include ignition time advanced too far, lean air/fuel mixtures, and insufficient octane rating of the gasoline.

Ash Fouled
ash_fo7.jpg

A build-up of combustion deposits stemming primarily from the burning of oil and/or fuel additives during normal combustion ... normally non-conductive. When heavier deposits are allowed to accumulate over a longer mileage period, they can "mask" the spark, resulting in a plug misfire condition.

Carbon Fouled
carbon3.jpg

Soft, black, sooty deposits easily identify this plug condition. This is most often caused by an over-rich, air/fuel mixture.
Check for a sticking choke, clogged air cleaner, or a carburetor problem - float level high, defective needle or seat, etc.
This may also be attributed to weak ignition voltage, an inoperative preheating system (carburetor intake air), or extremely low cylinder compression.
 
God I thought the dinosaurs had died out...On old 2 strokes the crankshaft seals can dry and perish giving a poor combustion seal, and hence lack of power..Especially under load..
 
Ps.Had same problem on an old GT250 Suzuki I bought after wife buggered off, it was that or be bikeless. It would start fine and rev but once under load it'd slowly die..
Wouldn't be hard to repair on such a simple engine, you'd need to get a decent dealer to replace them though as I'd expect you'd need to have the bearings pressed in..

In my mispent youth crankshafts were a common problem on the little 2 strokes we blasted around on..
 
go for the points and capasitor had that problem with ke 100 years ago ended up pushing it to work many a time
 
hello iv gt a honda mtx 50 with the h 100 engine but iv gt a 50 carb on and it wont ride but will start, if i changed the jets would it ride because it feels like its gt no power
 
i got it sorted eventually with a new coil , revved ok in neutral but lost all power under load , might be worth a try
 
bought a honda h 100 recently first bike will start after 2 or 3 kicks will rev for minute and then turn off then wont start again for a while and will do the same thing again and again any ideas?
 

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