Dog bone bolt

Hi all,

Before I go at it like the proverbial bull in a China shop I thought I would seek the advice of the collective.

I thought I would drop the swing arm and gog bone out this afternoon for a thorough greasing etc.

However, the forward end of the bone that goes through the frame is fouling the header pipe and there is no room to manouvre it past the pipework.

I have removed all the springs but cannot get any movement in the pipework to get the bolt past, I understood that I should be able to get past the pipework but no way.

do I have to disconnect one of the header pipe flanges from the head in order to get some movement on the pipework?
If so which is the easiest to remove.

I did try to post a pic but photobucket isn't playing nicely.

Many thanks

Phil

No, you should be ok. I used an old jack handle to pull the exhaust down a bit, not much needed, just enough to get the bolt released. There is a thread on here about it. If searching It's on this forum as opposed to other channel. I cannot find it as on my phone, I contributed and there was some good stuff on it.


Also if the bearings need re doing again search as the seals and bearing number that can be had for less than Aprilia want.

That rear down pipe can be a real **** to get to move , you have to pretend you have no mechanical sympathy with it and you,ll be fine .
when I did mine 1 st time I thought this is gonna end in very expnesive tears ! .

i un-bolt the shock first then you will have clearance to remove dog bolt

It's a bit of a mixed bag this one.

Some bolts just come out.
Some bolts will come out with a bit of leverage to the headers
And some bolts are impossible to remomove, without dropping the header.
Mine was the last one.
It's simple enough to slacken off the header.
Takes me no more than 15 mins these days as I've done it a few times now.

Top tips:
Obviously, back wheel & shock out.
Spray header bolts with plusgas the night before.
If you've never had them off, then consider spraying several times over a few days.
It'll just make it that bit easier.
To make it easy, you'll need a 14-20" 1/4 socket extension.
Access looks ****, but it's nowhere near as bad as it looks.
10mm socket, and take your time.
You'll only need to slacken it to get the clearance you need.
When you're done, nip up to 12Nm (this feels like nothing at all) be careful not to snap them off.
Tighten opposites....as you do it... 3o'clock-6o'clock, then 9o'clock-three o'clock. A bit at a time until they are all done.

Hi guys,

Many thanks for the feedback, my bolt follows Tifa's #3 option in that it's hitting the side of the down pipe and can't believe it wil move enough to clear the bold.

Shock is all disconnected at the base so will drop it out completely and see if I can get to the header flange and disconnect it there, fingers crossed.

Phil

It's easy enough.
Make sure the tank is propped up, that will allow you to see what's going on with the two upper nuts.
And to undo them, the swinger has to drop down out of the way/no shock/ and you kinda approach them from under the bike, between the s/arm.
The trick it to use a long socket extension. From memory, I think you can actually get a 3/8 drive in there, but it's tight.
Give them a good soaking in plusgas...and you'll be good to go mate.
Good luck, it's a bit like the dentist...not half as bad as you think lol

Tifa said:

Good luck, it's a bit like the dentist...not half as bad as you think lol

Click to expand...

You haven't met my dentist, his name is Herr Mengeler

Will elt you know how I get on

Does seem to be a lottery on wether ya bolt comes out or ya have to pry / remove or whatever

This is the clearance i have with the Zorst in place:



As you can see, no way mine would come out without some "work"

As above, plus gas / wd 40 the night before
Easier if you remove the wheel
I remove the springs and silencers, then push down (and back) on the zorst pipes. Maybe a tap with a rubber mallet too.
Didnt want to risk probs with the headers so left them alone.

Have fun !

hi tifa and others,

Tifa, thanks for the guidelines on getting the nuts off the head studs, lifting the tank helped no end to see the top exhaust flange nuts.

The good news is as follows:
- All the nuts came off cleanly and fairly easily
- Dog Bone is out
- all bearing have obviously been lubed as smooth and free of corrosion

So a bit of a good clean up re-grease and re-assembly and we are done.

As a question should Ire-seal the exhaust flange and if so with what?

Thanks for all the help guys

Fuggers

no sealant required on manifold gasket fella.
use a wee bit of tape to hold flange nuts in place in your socket when you offer them up to the studs.
saves them dropping out onto the floor, or getting lost between the chassis and the motor.
just nip it up evenly, and DO NOT overtighten.
use a torque wrench if you have one.

Oh yea, always torque up. Good luck!