Here it is. Won't stop the clocks resetting if your batt is flat/fecked however.
What you’ll need:
1000uF 25volt electrolytic capacitor, available Radio Shack or similar.
Electronics/hobby type soldering iron, preferably with medium chisel tip. No plumbers blow torches please!!
Electronics resin cored solder.
Electronics cutters and pliers.
Normal bike tools.
Cable/zip ties.
Time to get into it!
BEFORE DOING ANYTHING, remove the seat and remove the two main fuses and disconnect the battery.
Remove the 8 hex screws and remove the windscreen, slide out the dash cover from under the windscreen first.
Undo the cable ties securing the wiring looms to the frame at the back of the dash. I cut mine, but afterwards discovered that they can be undone if you’re careful and have small hands. It’s no big deal to cut them, as normal cable ties do a neat, secure job afterwards.
Slide back the rubber boot over the plug on the back of the dash and remove the plug. There’s a securing catch middle top of the plug which needs to be pressed down as you remove the plug. Don’t pull on the wires!!
Undo the three 10mm nuts securing the dash to the frame, two on top and one middle bottom. The bottom one is a bit fiddly, especially getting it back on during reassembly.
You’ve now got the dash in your hot little hands! Place it face down on a cotton towel on your work bench and remove the 8 or so small screws securing the back. Remove the back being careful not to break the rubber gasket, it may be stuck. Identify from the photos where the capacitor has to go. Also, avoid unnecessary touching/handling the printed board as there’s static sensitive components on it.
Identify the positive and negative leads of the capacitor and bend and trim the leads as shown in the photos. The negative lead is marked up the side of the capacitor. There’s a protrusion on the back cover that could interfere when you come to put on the cover, so take into account in your bending, trimming, positioning of the capacitor.
The aim is to have the capacitor lying on the board with the leads sitting nicely on the pads so there is no strain on the leads after soldering. If all is OK, solder the capacitor in position, ensuring good heat transfer but avoiding overheating the components or board. Your soldered joints should be shinny and smooth. If they’re dull and crystalline looking, it’s probably a dry joint. The connection may have moved before the solder set or there’s been insufficient heat transfer.
If all is good, run a bit of silicon sealant along the sides of the capacitor to secure it to the board. Well, that’s it. Put the back of the dash on paying attention that the rubber gasket stays over the little plastic locating pins all the way ’round.
From here, as they say in the workshop manuals, assembly is the reversal of disassembly. Nothing really tricky to watch for that I can remember.
Connect up the battery terminals first. While you’re at it, put a spring/wave/star washer under each terminal screw, it helps to maintain a nice tight connection. Put in the two main fuses and if all is well, the dash will go through it’s default reset caper.
Reset everything to your preferred settings and that should be the last time you have to do it!!
