Custom Map on Gen1

Gray · May 7, 2015

Hi guys,

I took my Gen1 Tuono to Jordan Bikes for a custom map setup after fitting the Forzaaprilia chip. I had previously installed a zero map into the PC3, so the chip was controlling the fueling with no input from the PC3.

I felt that the bike was running pretty good, but wanted to get the AFR set up, and also to see how the power curve was looking.

Josh (technician ) carried out an initial run to see what needed adjusting (if anything). The main thing was running rich above 8,500rpm. The secondary thing was a flat spot about 4,000rpm.

After about an hour and all adjustments finished, Josh did a final power run. The difference in the AFR was really noticeable and was very stable, I was really impressed. The power curve was smoother (still a slight flat spot at about 4,500 rpm but less than b4).

The power was 116.5 bhp
Torque was 72.2 ft lb

This was my first opportunity to hear the bike on full chat with this can on, (sounds good on the driveway) but sounds fu**ing gorgeous on full chat on the dyno - - bloody awesome. :clap:clap:clap :bigsmile

Cheers :cheers Gray :doug

grin factor · May 7, 2015

Impressive figures there Gray.
Let us know how it feels on the road.

Fugly · May 8, 2015

Hi Gray,
That all sounds like an enjoyable time with many enjoyable miles ahead.

Gray · May 8, 2015

Fugly said:
Hi Gray,
That all sounds like an enjoyable time with many enjoyable miles ahead.

It may sound daft, but once you see & hear your bike performing well on the dyno like that it leaves you feeling very confident that you have a good machine under you, which means you can concentrate on enjoying the bike & ride. :doug

Gray :cheers

Firking · May 11, 2015

My 04 factory has 124 and 84lb/ft on 2 different dynos with a Gabro chip k and n full akra system

Gray · May 11, 2015

Firking said:
My 04 factory has 124 and 84lb/ft on 2 different dynos with a Gabro chip k and n full akra system

Nice numbers m8.........I have a feeling that this might turn into a numbers game. :deal

Is it working again now........ only joking, it's as they say tho' size isn't everything :lol

Gray :hehe

Fugly · May 12, 2015

I don't care about the numbers (well not too much) as long as it sticks a bloody big grin on my mush when I twist the throttle back and listen to the Arrows roar.

Paul D · May 14, 2015

Nice to know what can be achieved when Tuoldo’s are tweaked. I agree what matters most is the ‘grin factor’ which is hard to measure in terms of bhp/torque.

My 03’ came with the following Dyno chart (dated May 2007). I assume this was done with the current Yoshi pipe + airbox mod + Ecu wire cut, but with the standard 17/42 sprockets. I may drop to 16 teeth front sprocket (+ rear 44) and go for a ECU chip upgrtade eventually, but still enjoying full throttle with 'only' 111bhp / 70 ft/lb at rear wheel at the mo... :lol

PS: It pulls nice and easy through the range with no flatspots, and pootles along in higher gears at anything above 2.5 to 3k rpm, so I'm wondering if the chip has been replaced already (not sure how easy it is to get to access ECU - any info gladly received).

Fugly · May 14, 2015

Hi Paul, If it pulls high gears at 2.5K then I wouldn't lower the gearing any further

Gray · May 14, 2015

Paul,

To access the ECU is dead easy. Remove rider seat, ECU is behind seat in a compartment covered with a black/grey rubber cover. Lift off the cover. There are two multiway connectors on the front of the ECU, these detach very easily. I personally disconnect the battery first, not sure if this is absolutely necessary. Once the two connectors have been removed the ECU can be slid out from behind the seat.
The ECU is held together with 4 small Philips screws, however I woud suggest wearing rubber gloves to counteract the effects of any static that may have built up. Once the lid has been removed from the ECU, the "chip" will be obvious.
The chip should have an ID code on it, the ID will identify which chip you have, you just need to ask the forum and someone will let you know which chip you have.

If you disconnected the battery you will have to reset your dash (clock / rev limit / mph etc).

Gray

Firking · May 15, 2015

It is fixed now Gray
The figures help if you are the same size as me lol
Ps it might help that's mine a factory

Paul D · May 18, 2015

Thanks guys. I'll check ECU chip forthwith.

Fugly said:
Hi Paul, If it pulls high gears at 2.5K then I wouldn't lower the gearing any further

I must confess I quite like the standard gearing, which is good for touring (not that I do much of that. Cruising in 6th below 6k rpm gives around 40mpg.) Problem is, using 6th in the 7k to 9k power band is OK on a track but a bit mental on road (given that 8k rpm = 140mph 'alledgidly'!).

I don't mind a shorter 1st gear (due to changing front sprocket from 17 to 16 tooth), and it will mean 5th and 6th are more usable. Anyway... will run the old girl on std 17 for a few months then decide whether to drop a tooth on front sprocket before re-evaluating.

simonb · May 20, 2015

I just thought sod it and as my rear was a new Supersprox 42t i dropped to a 15 on the front.
What a fantastic improvement for only Â£16,bike now picks up like it should and pulls like a train from 5k.

Gray · May 20, 2015

I have a 16t front and 43t rear........I didn't want to go from 17t to 15t at the front so I added one on the back. This keeps chain size pretty much the same.

Gray

Fugly · May 20, 2015

I am on a 15 tooth front with the standard rear and love the midrange drive this give s

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