This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Crankcase fooked by broken chain

Joined Jul 2008
3 Posts | 0+
OK, picture this, and please indulge me because it's not been a great day.....

Nice new qualifier RR's fitted, but on fitting noticed that the chain was beyond stretch, so ordered a new chain and sprocket set (Triple S chain)

So a few days ago, the chain and sprocket got fitted, the link plate on the chain was torqued up to 20 NM as per the guide supplied with the chain riveting tool. All aligned, and play on the chain checked and adjusted.

Flash forward to 2:30 today, Missus allowed me to play, as long as I picked up some plants while out, so set off in a 30 limit for about 2 miles, so far so good.

Reached the National speed limit signs, and started to wind it on. Suddenly there's a bang, the engine stops dead, and I'm freewheeling.

Stop the bike, the chain is dangling out of the bottom of the fairing, get off check all my limbs are there first then check the bike, which now has a chunk out of the carbon fibre rear mudguard...gutted.

OK, what else......oh, the chain guard is smashed as well. That's not good.
Wheel the bike home take the fairing off, front sprocket cover smashed too...this gets better. When it smashed the sprocket cover, it also smashed the aluminium mounting for the sprocket cover, where the top bolt goes in. It was still attached so I've got it, but I'm guessing that superglue won't help with this. On closer examination, the chain has jammed between the sprocket and casing, so I've had to trash the remnants of the chain to get it off.

Holy crankcases batman! What a day.

I fired up the engine, and everything sounds okay, which is a good thing, but where do I go from here...
1. I found the link on the road but no link plate, so I'm guessing that was where the problem was. I guess I have no comeback? I've fitted a chain or two in my time, so pretty confident I did it right. I had my doubts about triple s last night, and this seems to have confirmed it.
2. OK, the important and potentially expensive bit, the crankcase. The way I see it I have 5 options:
Throw the broken bit away and pretend it never existed;
Remount it in place, after all it has got a steel retaining plate that should stop it going anywhere, not too keen on this one though;
Have an aluminium welder do his thing on it, I'm guessing that's pretty much a full stripdown of the engine though;
Get some of that HTS-2000 from http://www.aluminiumrepair.co.uk, but again, I guess I would need a full stripdown....or if I was pretty handy with a pencil flame, would I get away with it??
New engine, or replace crankcases. Crankcases new at £883 made me wince a bit, so it would be second hand motor for £500, or second hand crankcases at £250, obviously on top of getting a new DECENT chain. Not a favoured option.

So, be gentle with me, I've had a pants day anyway, but if you can advise it would be appreciated.

Steve
 
Sounds like you've had a day from hell.

Can you post some pics so we can advise if it's a repair or replace job?

However, pretty sure that it can be repaired as these ally welders these days are pretty damn good.
 
picture.php

picture.php

picture.php

picture.php

picture.php
 
Looks like it was the same as mine mate, don at southerncross said it would be cheaper to do a new engine or second hand one, apart from that it is putting the trust in an allu welder. :dunno.
 
If it was me, i would just get new sprocket cover and not use top mount, the sprocket cover is not structural in fact i think its mainly cosmetic, also i believe you can get some stuff to repair carbon fibre, my mudguard has got some smaller type damage in the same place so maybe my bike has had a chain let go ! also thanks i was about to ask if the output shaft should be threaded all the way thru as mine is not just like urs :)
 
Crikey, that's done some serious damage.

It took a chunk out of your wheel too, any tyre damage?

I know you say it runs OK but if it was mine I think I would have to replace the engine, always worth seeing if you can get it repaired though, you may be surprised.

Worth waiting a while before acting as some one on here may have had this happen to them and may know just the guy or gal to repair your casing.
 
Just bear in mind that this is an area that often has some form of damage( altho not as bad as urs) on most bikes with some miles on them, chains often jump or kick if there to loose or just a bit worn and damage surrounding area (had a gsxr with small piece missing from alu sprocket cover but most used covers were not a great deal better!) on the + side aprilia sprocket cover is only £16. :)
 
It is awful to see damage like that as you fear the worst but really you were lucky it didn't wrap around the sprocket and lock it up and or mangle gearbox internals etc.

Also as mentioned the sprocket cover is only a saftey and cosmetic measure. Same thing happened to me on a hornet and I used JB weld to stick it back on and it never came off in the 4 years after that while i still owner the bike.

Besides you have 2 other mounting points and it takes no stresses through it to break any kind of repair. A repair with JB or similar will hardly be noticable and will last a lifetime i would bet.
 
do ali tig welding for a living and somthing like that can be a pane in the arse as it is cast ali and needs to be spotles cleen can be done but very fidly :thumbup
 
Last edited:
If it was me, i would just get new sprocket cover and not use top mount, the sprocket cover is not structural in fact i think its mainly cosmetic, also i believe you can get some stuff to repair carbon fibre, my mudguard has got some smaller type damage in the same place so maybe my bike has had a chain let go ! also thanks i was about to ask if the output shaft should be threaded all the way thru as mine is not just like urs :)


true yes just had a good look at the phots... mine had a large hole in the side... it is now running without the cover on:thumbup. go for that
 
If it was me, i would just get new sprocket cover and not use top mount, the sprocket cover is not structural in fact i think its mainly cosmetic, also i believe you can get some stuff to repair carbon fibre, my mudguard has got some smaller type damage in the same place so maybe my bike has had a chain let go ! also thanks i was about to ask if the output shaft should be threaded all the way thru as mine is not just like urs :)

Fully agree..hell it is piss plastic and no strength on mount needed..new cover and 2 bolts :thumbup
 
Unlucky mate :eek:

Think i'll get my new chain fitted at a garage when i come to replace it ...also agree with above to replace cover and just have two bolts in
 
So a few days ago, the chain and sprocket got fitted, the link plate on the chain was torqued up to 20 NM as per the guide supplied with the chain riveting tool. All aligned, and play on the chain checked and adjusted.

:( Ouch!

Normally you'd measure the spread of the pin heads. The chain manufacturer should have that info availablefor their link plate.

I've not heard of a torque measurment on the tool, what brand tool?
 
:( Ouch!

Normally you'd measure the spread of the pin heads. The chain manufacturer should have that info availablefor their link plate.

I've not heard of a torque measurment on the tool, what brand tool?

I usually measure a link across the width of the chain being fitted (vernier caliper is good) ..then press on the new link plate to same width dimension.
Same..don't know this torque bit..i use a V punch in a dolly and rivet the pins right round.
 
I have the exact same mounting missing and sprocket cover smashed in the same place. This happened before I got the bike and I only found out when I fitted a 16 tooth sprocket.... That was 8 years ago and I've never had a problem running it like this..didn't even replace the cover just used the remaining mountings and its still ok.
This was a common fault with early models as some had problems with chains snapping.
 
I usually measure a link across the width of the chain being fitted (vernier caliper is good) ..then press on the new link plate to same width dimension.
Same..don't know this torque bit..i use a V punch in a dolly and rivet the pins right round.

Thanks for all the replies, think I'll run it with just 2 bolts in the cover.

I've cut the carbon fibre with a dremel to make a smooth curve, and matched it on the other side. doesn't look too bad, and then used a hot soldering iron with some plastic to melt the chain guard and sprocket cover back tgether. doesn't look too bad at all!

The tool I have is an RK, and specifies torque to be applied to the pin to spread it, dependent on the chain size, 20,25 or 30Nm

I've ordered a Tsubaki chain, so fingers crossed this will do the trick.

So, you are effectively measuring the length of the pin, and squashing the new on until it matches?
 
×

New Posts