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Cold starting

R

Rich

I've been riding the bike into work this week. I always use the cold start and it always starts first time. I leave it idling while I get my lid and gloves on - 30 seconds maybe. However, tonight after about 20 seconds with 36c showing, the idle suddenly shot up to about 4,000 rpm. I dropped it back down and it was ok but kind of 'hunting'. Dropped it a bit more and rode off with a tiny bit of fast idle on to stop it stalling. Once I was moving I closed the cold start right off. When I got to the main barrier and stopped (about 100 yds) I blipped it a bit as the revs felt a bit low but it stalled :dunno It started again but I'm wondering if this sounds normal? The temp was showing 72c when it stalled. Can the sprag get damaged if it stalls? Does it sound like it needs a tune? It does smell quite rich when it's on fast idle.

Cheers
 
I do pretty much the same routine on mine with starting then lid gloves etc on mine (52 plate) and had similar problems although not the stalling but then I don't stop for a while after leaving mine. Had my throttle bodies set up by Griff (was running way too rich) and touchwood it's been fine since. I still use the cold start out of habit.
Not too sure about damage to the sprag but someone will be along shortly to let you know.:thumbup
Hope you get it sorted buddy
 
Sounds like you're doing everything right mate - stalling when hot suggests that it needs a tune-up - see Griff.
The sprag really gets damaged when you wail on the starter for long periods. Stalling it occasionally shouldn't be a problem.
 
Check that you have no air leaks around the throttle bodies, there are some little black caps on the TB take off ports that fall off and cause issues like this.

Take your air box off and make sure your TB butterflies are not loose, this happened to KiwiRSVR and his throttle was sticking.

If after looking at all the bits above it still misbehaves and stalls then you'll need your CO and TB's setting. You can get it done by your local Aprilia dealer but best to get it done by Griff. In preparation for this you'll need to make sure the front and rear header bungs come out, if they don't then Griff can't get his meter take off pipes fitted and won't be able to accurately measure the CO.
 
Thanks for the replies. To be honest, I think I'm still getting used to it so may have been shutting the cold start down too early. Been getting in the habit of leaving it on for a few seconds after I ride off and it seems ok now. However, I will try and get the bungs out of the downpipes for the future. Let's hope they come out easier than the 4 front mudguard bolts I had to drill out and re-tap yesterday :roll
 
Last edited:
Rich said:
Let's hope they come out easier than the 4 front mudguard bolts I had to drill out and re-tap yesterday :roll
Click to expand...

If they are tight coming out use a blow lamp to carefully heat them up and they will come out easier :thumbup much easier in the long run than damaging the threads :eatcorn
 
Smokinjoe said:
If they are tight coming out use a blow lamp to carefully heat them up and they will come out easier :thumbup much easier in the long run than damaging the threads :eatcorn
Click to expand...
Mate, they were that rusted I don't think a flame thrower would have shifted them! I tried an impact driver, cutting a slot and tapping them round - all the usual tricks but no luck. I had to drill them all out and while I was there I retapped them to M6 (std is M5) and fitted some decent stainless button heads. Looks much better now.
 

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