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Clutch lever problem

Ibanezwizz

Ibanezwizz

Joined Oct 2010
12 Posts | 0+
I have fitted new levers. With the new clutch lever adjusted fully outwards (away from the handle bar) it is now a bit more difficult to engage gears – and find neutral as the clutch biting point is slightly closer to the handle bar than with the original lever (which was adjusted fully – outwards from the handle bar). Can I adjust anything with this little screw going into the cylinder? What is this adjuster actually for, as it is clearly adjustable 3mm in each direction? Thanks.

hyd-adj.jpg
 
In your picture m8 that little nut ,thats the cause of your woes,You are spot on it is an adjuster if you yake the lever off and whilst off adjust the little pushrod out, your levers look the same as mine(£32 on fleabay)ive got maybe 5mm of thread showing on the wee rod before the nut, hope this helps
 
Hi m8 the nut is on the plunger that goes into the clutch mastercylinder when you swaped them over you take that bit oot the original lever if youve no adjustment someone must have buggered about wi it at some point fek knows how you would adjust it if need be ........
 
all i done was removeed old lever took the dowl shim thing out of lever and the push rod and replaced them into new lever all the same just a straight swap no nut tho was working fine before hand
 
Hi lee if you look at ibanezwizz's picture yours isnt the same behind the rubber part you just have shaft wi no nut or thread?????
 
my push rod screws intow the dowl on lever then when ur apllying lever to clip on the rod just slips in to master cylinder thats it ? mine is a 51 plate mille
 
leephiilps said:
my push rod screws intow the dowl on lever then when ur apllying lever to clip on the rod just slips in to master cylinder thats it ? mine is a 51 plate mille
Click to expand...

Is your the same as this.

Picture-1.jpg


Mine's an 04 plate, these are standard M/C with no adjustment. I think the one in the first picture is the newer (radial) M/C
 
So adjusting the pushrod inwards or outwards to set clutch bitting point (on lever) further away from the handle bar? More or less screw thread showing?
 
bryanthegoat said:
In your picture m8 that little nut ,thats the cause of your woes,You are spot on it is an adjuster if you yake the lever off and whilst off adjust the little pushrod out, your levers look the same as mine(£32 on fleabay)ive got maybe 5mm of thread showing on the wee rod before the nut, hope this helps
Click to expand...

So you screwed the nut inwards - towards the cylinder - to compensate?
 
thats it m8 if you screw the bar out so it engages quicker you should't hit the bar,Nik i think your right ive on 05 and it is different cheers for clearing that up wasn't sure if older models had the little adjuster........
 
Just read that back didny make sense when i said bar i meant the little adjuster on the plunger thing but your spot on wi your thinking on it anyway good luck m8
 
Just to complete the thread. That little plunger is the mother of mothers in terms of being responsible for all the clutch grief. This is what I found out. This plunger has sod all to do with adjusting free play! Max in or out on does nothing for lever free play adjustment! Therefore, I thought that the plunger might not be going deep enough into the cylinder even on the max adjustment. Anyway, I undid the small locking hex bolt on the plunger and extended the plunger screw for another 3mm outwards - with this I gained adjustment length. About 3mm is max for the hex bolt to still lock the plunger. This means that when I squeeze the lever now the plunger goes deeper into the cylinder. And wow miracle happens! The clutch becomes a dream. I also had the dreaded neutral problem (constant bleeds with small improvements) but can now for the first time find neutral from 1st upwards not to mention from 2nd downwards every single time – straight away. Thank God! I think all hard to find neutrals are caused by inadequate plunger length setting by the factory. So anyone having this problem - extend that plunger!
 
all i done was removeed old lever took the dowl shim thing out of lever and the push rod and replaced them into new lever all the same just a straight swap no nut tho was working fine before hand
Click to expand...

I think you'll find that there are two different types. One is adjustable, one isn't. For an adjustable one see Baz, for a non-adjustable one order the brembo lever assy for an 01 Mille (please don't ask me how I know). I also found that a quick bleed of the clutch system helped with my biting point as it did move slightly when I put a new lever on for some reason.
 
Hello, first of all forgive me for bringing up an ancient thread.

I bought a 2004 rsv factory and rite away I knew there was something wrong with the clutch or gearbox, the symptoms are as follows

With the bike off I can go throw the gears no problem, engine on and idle with the clutch I can put it into first but trying to get it out of first it's near impossible.

When riding the bike it'll change through the gears, which makes sense that the issue is with the clutch lever!

It had aftermarket levers put on but I don't think the bolt was adjusted as described above.

So do I need to remove the lever or can I get a small spanner and turn the bolt with the lever on?

I hope this is actually the problem because I love the bike but slowing down to stop in first I can't get it into neutral

I'll be doing the upgraded oil jet mod asap, just need to double check how to adjust this nut first
 

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