hi please find my youtube video on how to change the oil and filter on the 2014 caponord hope this is of some us.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fV8TeqAPens
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fV8TeqAPens
Good video Timbo - just everyone take note of the owner's manual (and service technician's advice) that oil level is to be checked with engine at operating temp, on centre stand, switched off, and after 1-2 minutes the level should be near the high mark - if you leave it overnight and check when dead cold the level will be below minimum! Do not add oil at this point - it will be overfull.
I know it looks like a translation error and, where does the oil disappear to? It seems to be an unreliable way to monitor oil level BUT it is the Aprilia way.
Might explain why some owners have had oil smoking/usage/airbox problems (maybe) if they thought like I did, that the manual was nuts.
I'm using Motorex Formula T semi synth 15w50 and will change it and filter at 5000kms. Might review this after 10,000km and go full synthetic. Cheers from Brisbane
I know it looks like a translation error and, where does the oil disappear to? It seems to be an unreliable way to monitor oil level BUT it is the Aprilia way.
Might explain why some owners have had oil smoking/usage/airbox problems (maybe) if they thought like I did, that the manual was nuts.
I'm using Motorex Formula T semi synth 15w50 and will change it and filter at 5000kms. Might review this after 10,000km and go full synthetic. Cheers from Brisbane
hi please find my youtube video on how to change the oil and filter on the 2014 caponord hope this is of some us.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fV8TeqAPens
I had some trouble getting the filter off at 5000km, so just changed the oil. I now have a Piaggio tool oil filter, will this make life easier?
I tried every conventional band type of filter tool without success.
I plan to drop it next at 9,000km.
Motul oil seems to be the preference rather than Agip in Australia. Anyone have an opinion.
like your video timbo
Oils ain't oils
Hi Caponuts. I have used Motul 5100 10w50 in my Blackbird (6000km changes) and the thing does not use any oil at 120,000km.....that's great! However the Aprilia mechanics like Motorex 15w50. So I am using the semi synthetic 15w50 Motorex 4T with a change due at 5000km then at 10,000k. Maybe I'll switch to the synthetic stuff at 10,000, after the engine has properly sealed itself on semi-synthetic oil for the first few months of it's life. I'd like to use Motul, but it isn't available in 15w50 and the owners manual specifies Jasco MA2 15w50 for the big twin. Take care not to strip any threads - these euro bikes seem to be not as robust as Nippon bikes and need Locktite on threads rather than just screwing stuff up nice and tight! ps I do all my own services on the Blackbird, but I was trained by my cousin who is a bike mechanic and top class engine builder! Wish he was working at the Aprilia dealer........
Hi Caponuts. I have used Motul 5100 10w50 in my Blackbird (6000km changes) and the thing does not use any oil at 120,000km.....that's great! However the Aprilia mechanics like Motorex 15w50. So I am using the semi synthetic 15w50 Motorex 4T with a change due at 5000km then at 10,000k. Maybe I'll switch to the synthetic stuff at 10,000, after the engine has properly sealed itself on semi-synthetic oil for the first few months of it's life. I'd like to use Motul, but it isn't available in 15w50 and the owners manual specifies Jasco MA2 15w50 for the big twin. Take care not to strip any threads - these euro bikes seem to be not as robust as Nippon bikes and need Locktite on threads rather than just screwing stuff up nice and tight! ps I do all my own services on the Blackbird, but I was trained by my cousin who is a bike mechanic and top class engine builder! Wish he was working at the Aprilia dealer........
Motul is best for me
G'day again Caponaughts, I am about to ditch the Motorex 15w50 semi-syn oil for Motul 20w50 Twin-Syn. The Motorex is just not up to the rigors of big twin engines and goes watery within 2000km (rattly engine noise). Motul twin syn is specifically designed for big twins and is basically a semi-syn like 5100. I plan to use full syn 7100 20w50 from 10,000k.....but want to use semi syn to bed the motor in properly. I have read in forums that 10w60 7100 is also good.....but if this blasted east coast low pressure system would bugger off and let the sun shine again, I will get the bike hot and change oil and filter and report. I'm hoping the Motul will be good for 5000k change intervals.
G'day again Caponaughts, I am about to ditch the Motorex 15w50 semi-syn oil for Motul 20w50 Twin-Syn. The Motorex is just not up to the rigors of big twin engines and goes watery within 2000km (rattly engine noise). Motul twin syn is specifically designed for big twins and is basically a semi-syn like 5100. I plan to use full syn 7100 20w50 from 10,000k.....but want to use semi syn to bed the motor in properly. I have read in forums that 10w60 7100 is also good.....but if this blasted east coast low pressure system would bugger off and let the sun shine again, I will get the bike hot and change oil and filter and report. I'm hoping the Motul will be good for 5000k change intervals.
G'day all, have been running Twin Syn for 600km's and have noticed that it may have slightly tamed the edginess that some riders might not like. I can't be super sure that it's due to the 20w50 oil or just km's travelled, but I have been able to chug around roundabouts in 3rd at pretty low rpm's without a drama.Note that I have a 2014 model - OEM gearing 17/42 modified to 16/42 - the earlier 2013 model had 16/43 and different internal gear ratios! Mine runs fine and I have clocked up 4600kms. I can't really say that Twin Syn is right or not, and may end up using a 15w40 full syn. My oil consumption is still approx 100/150cc per 1000k and I would like to see this reduce to zero soon (my 05 Blackbird has never needed any top ups in 122,000kms with Motul 5100 10w50 and 6000k changes....this is my "normal" that I hope Capo settles down to real soon) Cheers from Aus.
Hello DIY oil changers. Just a note, when I was draining the engine oil, after the bulk of old oil was out, I placed the Capo down and onto the side stand and out came another 2-300cc of oil. That meant when I put 3.4ltr of new oil in (I put 3.2 in and tested, then topped up with 200cc) the level was correct at just under max mark when at operating temp, switched off, and on centre stand. There was plenty of room to replace the oil filter without removing anything and I screwed it on with my hand so as not to overtighten it.
The little magnet in the sump plug had captured a small amount of grit. I've now got 5000km up. Engine still sipping oil around 150cc/1000k. I'll ask the head mechanic next time I'm at the dealer's, as he mentioned they solved oil usage on KTM1190's by using a different grade of oil. I'm just a spoil't brat Blackbird rider that expects all engines to be perfect(?) Otherwise, it's all good!
The little magnet in the sump plug had captured a small amount of grit. I've now got 5000km up. Engine still sipping oil around 150cc/1000k. I'll ask the head mechanic next time I'm at the dealer's, as he mentioned they solved oil usage on KTM1190's by using a different grade of oil. I'm just a spoil't brat Blackbird rider that expects all engines to be perfect(?)
Otherwise, it's all good!Err it's him again.....The Motul Twin Syn lasted 3000k and was very black and watery. It is mineral oil with only gearbox additives, so it had done well in the Caponord. I've put new Motorex 15w50 semi synthetic in for the final 3000k to the 10,000 scheduled service. (I was too quick to judge it last time....no matter, a BMW mechanic told me he used ordinary mineral bike oil to run his GS wasser boxer in - with 3000k changes - and he said it uses no oil). Here's hoping my motor has settled in and stops sooting up the exhaust end cap.
At last, after the oil and filter change at 7,000k, I have clocked up 1000k without any oil top up! The oil level has only dropped about a 100ml (ie approx 1/4 of the sight glass min-max), so I'm feeling relieved that my C-nord may have run in fully and won't drink any more oil between changes. Also, the Zorst end cap is clean of soot/black blotches! Much happy bout that! yEEHARRR.My H-D riding mate had told me it will take 5-10,000k for a big twin to free up and settle down.....I was nearly doubting his words.....but he was spot-on! I hope to see the 10,000 service without adding any oil. Then I'll decide whether to use semi syn 5000k change or full syn.....not sure if it will really last 10,000k in a thumping big Vtwin. It's probably a safer bet to dump the oil at half interval as any contaminants are inside for a long time at 10k intervals.
One More Ride Before 10,000km Service
Hi all. I'm almost ready for the 10,000km service and can report that the semi synthetic Motorex is good for 2000k, then goes black and struggles to make the 3000km change (this is most likely where Capo drinks the oil as the level didn't move much in the first 1200kms, then slowly got lower and lower until I felt guilty and topped it up for the last 1000k before the 10k service).
So I will be going full synthetic from 10,000 and most likely will run with Shell 15w50 full syn (cause Ducati recommends it for Multistrada....and I use Shell semi in the car....so it is good stuff, available everywhere).
I'll keep an eye on it though, as I don't believe oil will last more than 5,000kms before needing changing (big twins seem to trash oils faster than Jap multi's).
Hi all. I'm almost ready for the 10,000km service and can report that the semi synthetic Motorex is good for 2000k, then goes black and struggles to make the 3000km change (this is most likely where Capo drinks the oil as the level didn't move much in the first 1200kms, then slowly got lower and lower until I felt guilty and topped it up for the last 1000k before the 10k service).
So I will be going full synthetic from 10,000 and most likely will run with Shell 15w50 full syn (cause Ducati recommends it for Multistrada....and I use Shell semi in the car....so it is good stuff, available everywhere).
I'll keep an eye on it though, as I don't believe oil will last more than 5,000kms before needing changing (big twins seem to trash oils faster than Jap multi's).
Hi Caponuts, The service guys put 10w40 Motorex Top Speed full synthetic in instead of 15w50.......bugger it, now it is using oil again! So I'll put up with it for a few 1000kms then I'll change over to 15w50 grade full synthetic (either Shell Ultra or Motul 7100).
10w40 is just too 'thin' for a Euro Twin.....
10w40 is just too 'thin' for a Euro Twin.....
Hi Brisbanord, what sort of running in did you do when you got the bike? Just wondering if I should use the steady version or the give it a bit of work to do version to bed the rings in etc.
Only 2 weeks to wait now
Only 2 weeks to wait now
G'day Rockbyter......2 weeks, that's 14 sleeps..... you will be exhausted by the time you collect it!
Bikes pretty much don't need any special treatment to run them in.....but.....the engine bearings like short runs to heat up and cool down in the first 1-200kms. The owners manual pretty much nails it for the break in - I am just too scared to use full synthetic oils in the first 10,000kms due to a bad experience with an FZR1000, BUT I must add that I have used Motul 5100 10w50 in my 05 Blackbird from the 1000km service till now at 122,000kms (change every 6,000kms) and the oil level does not change between services and the valve clearances have barely moved...... My dealer uses Motorex Oils but they seem very thin and I had to change them every 3000kms. Ducati Aust specifies Shell Ultra 15w50 so that's gotta be a good choice of oil. (Motul 5100 15w50 would be my choice every 5000k....maybe 7100 would last 10,000k....who knows?).
I ran in Capo as per the manual....but it was a very tight engine, and with the original gearing, I had to use 2nd gear instead of 3rd around town (60kph zones) and kept the revs up around 4000rpm to smooth out the jumpy throttle (twins are naturally out of whack as they are missing two cylinders!).
Once I altered the front sprocket (others changed the rear sprocket) and clocked up 5000k it began to settle and after 7000kms it was normal and I could let the revs drop under 3000 and not be ****** around. Capo likes to rev - it has a light fly wheel and won't happy below say 3400rpm (it is a 12:1 compression motor and they don't like being lugged). Mine is at it's best from 4200rpm and it sure likes 6000!
Try and stay calm....two weeks eh?.....there is a black one on the dealers floor here, but the airfare would kill the deal....
Bikes pretty much don't need any special treatment to run them in.....but.....the engine bearings like short runs to heat up and cool down in the first 1-200kms. The owners manual pretty much nails it for the break in - I am just too scared to use full synthetic oils in the first 10,000kms due to a bad experience with an FZR1000, BUT I must add that I have used Motul 5100 10w50 in my 05 Blackbird from the 1000km service till now at 122,000kms (change every 6,000kms) and the oil level does not change between services and the valve clearances have barely moved...... My dealer uses Motorex Oils but they seem very thin and I had to change them every 3000kms. Ducati Aust specifies Shell Ultra 15w50 so that's gotta be a good choice of oil. (Motul 5100 15w50 would be my choice every 5000k....maybe 7100 would last 10,000k....who knows?).
I ran in Capo as per the manual....but it was a very tight engine, and with the original gearing, I had to use 2nd gear instead of 3rd around town (60kph zones) and kept the revs up around 4000rpm to smooth out the jumpy throttle (twins are naturally out of whack as they are missing two cylinders!).
Once I altered the front sprocket (others changed the rear sprocket) and clocked up 5000k it began to settle and after 7000kms it was normal and I could let the revs drop under 3000 and not be ****** around. Capo likes to rev - it has a light fly wheel and won't happy below say 3400rpm (it is a 12:1 compression motor and they don't like being lugged). Mine is at it's best from 4200rpm and it sure likes 6000!
Try and stay calm....two weeks eh?.....there is a black one on the dealers floor here, but the airfare would kill the deal....
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Thanks for that, mine is sitting at the dealers waiting. I could have it now but the UK registration mark changes 1st March and 1st September so I am waiting for that so mine will have a 65 reg not a 15 Not a real issue but might as well have the posing value.
No way to get to the filter straight on? I'm getting ready to do the oil/filter and was hoping to use one of the dozen filter "Cap" wrenches that I already have...
richy
richy
G'day richy, You shouldn't have any problem with the oil filter, I've changed mine three times in between the official services, and I haven't had to remove anything to get to the filter. Cheers mate.
Oh, if you're fussy, move the bike down off the centre stand onto the side stand and you will get another 1-200cc of old oil out of the sump.....(or, I suppose, drain the oil while using the side stand)....then Capo will take 3400cc of the good stuff (with a new filter), and the oil level will be at the max mark when you do a hot check.
Oh, if you're fussy, move the bike down off the centre stand onto the side stand and you will get another 1-200cc of old oil out of the sump.....(or, I suppose, drain the oil while using the side stand)....then Capo will take 3400cc of the good stuff (with a new filter), and the oil level will be at the max mark when you do a hot check.
G'day all, my Caponord has 14,450kms up and I've decided to leave the 10w40 synthetic Motorex in to see how far it will go before the gearchange begins to feel notchy. Because I'm an Aussie tightwad, and because I've got a bottle of useless semi syn on the shelf I'm hoping the 10-40 will see me to 17,000kms, at which I will use up my semi syn for the 3,000k's through to the 20,000km official service....(hey, that way I save an oil filter too), then I will happily convert to Motul 15w50 full synthetic!
Ps These bikes get better with age! I just had a ride on one with 20,000kms on it's odo, and it felt better than mine......that Capo hadn't gone in for it's 20k service either (that's happening tomorrow). So the big message is - it takes at least 7,000kms for the 1200 motor to settle in, and it will be giving it's best after 15,000kms! At 20,000k, the other Capo was real smooth and a joy to ride
pps Stev-Oh should have posted his photo of two 'rare' beast's parked together at the "Outpost Cafe" on err, the other forum....Cheers all.
), then I will happily convert to Motul 15w50 full synthetic!Ps These bikes get better with age! I just had a ride on one with 20,000kms on it's odo, and it felt better than mine......that Capo hadn't gone in for it's 20k service either (that's happening tomorrow). So the big message is - it takes at least 7,000kms for the 1200 motor to settle in, and it will be giving it's best after 15,000kms! At 20,000k, the other Capo was real smooth and a joy to ride
pps Stev-Oh should have posted his photo of two 'rare' beast's parked together at the "Outpost Cafe" on err, the other forum....Cheers all.
thanks for the vid, clarified some issues!
Thanx for the vid, please do more maintenance type vids, very helpful!
Thanx for the vid, please do more maintenance type vids, very helpful!
Hi Nicholas......I'm not sure if Timbo still has his Capo......but there isn't much you can do
on a Caponord except the usual lube adjust chain, oil and filter ( be very careful not to overfill...it only takes 3.4 Ltrs with a new filter). Clutch fluid is owner do-able. Most of the rest is laptop Aprilia software connected.....eg you cannot adjust the ex-valve cables without official software (but you can remove them and plug in a Healtech Eliminator).
The valves require over 8 hrs of striping body work and radiator etc to get to the cam covers......so this is best left to the dealers though once it has been done, it probably could be ignored for twice the service interval (if you change your oil more frequently there will be minimal valve wear).
Capo is a great bike but the Italians don't consider DIY maintenance to be a priority - that's what the service dept's are paid for......maybe this is the real reason the Caponord 1200 has been discontinued for several years.....
on a Caponord except the usual lube adjust chain, oil and filter ( be very careful not to overfill...it only takes 3.4 Ltrs with a new filter). Clutch fluid is owner do-able. Most of the rest is laptop Aprilia software connected.....eg you cannot adjust the ex-valve cables without official software (but you can remove them and plug in a Healtech Eliminator).
The valves require over 8 hrs of striping body work and radiator etc to get to the cam covers......so this is best left to the dealers though once it has been done, it probably could be ignored for twice the service interval (if you change your oil more frequently there will be minimal valve wear).
Capo is a great bike but the Italians don't consider DIY maintenance to be a priority - that's what the service dept's are paid for......maybe this is the real reason the Caponord 1200 has been discontinued for several years.....
