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Bloody Clutch - comments welcome!

Joined Mar 2009
11 Posts | 0+
Bures, Suffolk
1st time poster - long time reader. This place is a great resource.

Following a blast back from the BSB @ Cadwell last year I've aquired the dreaded clutch woes........really surprised by how many bikes are affected by this problem - maybe Aprilia in conjunction with Brembo will issue an official statement in keeping with that of the rear brake fiasco confirming after totally biased testing there is also nothing wrong here either :devious

I've scoured this forum, bled, bled and bled again, fitted an MPL slave, bled, bled, fitted a new banjo bleeder, beld - you get the idea - but still no neutral with the engine running. Next stop is a new (upgraded) master cylinder.

Anyone have any good recommendations - I was looking at the Brembo (OK - I realise the contradiction here) 16 RCS Radial Clutch Master Cylinder???
 
The 06 bike has the updated clutch oil jet which pretty much solves the neutral issue (if it's a genuine 06 and not just reg in 06)

If you can't get neutral after bleeding and the clutch lever pushrod is adjusted correctly then either you M/C is duff or there is a clutch issue internally.

You should have about 10mm lever free play (at the tip) which can be altered via the pushrod. Any trapped air is usually at the bleed nipple on the M/C. You have to rotate it on the bars so the nipple is as high as you can get it and then just crack the nipple a smidge with a little pressure on the lever. If there is any air you will get 2 or 3 bubbles and then your done. No need for a full system bleed.

You will have to repeat this every 1k or soas the fluid gets cooked due to the heat at the slave expanding miniscule air bubbles in the fluid.

Also get a pin and heat it up and use it to melt a tiny hole in the dust boot at the top where the lever meets the body. Brembo found the boot seals too well and causes air pressure than gets forced past the seal. The dust boot is much smaller on the later M/C
 
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Thanks for the reply Spoonz. It was/is a genuine 06 - waited 3 months for delivery!!!! - I've had the jet out and confirmed it is a '.40' - that was a dissapointing moment as I thought it would be a quick & easy fix. Noticed recently that I'm getting a black residue when bleeding at the M/C and assume this is possibly due to the seals starting to break down???

Neutral is totally possible when it's not running but a total pain (3 or 4 attempts) before you can hit it when the enigines running. Starting to adopt the 'snick it in just before coming to a halt' method but the whole issue tarnishes what is otherwise a good bike.

I will bleed following your instructions and pierce the boot as suggested - will report back on the results!!

Thanks again:thumbup
 
Thanks for the reply Spoonz. It was/is a genuine 06 - waited 3 months for delivery!!!! - I've had the jet out and confirmed it is a '.40' - that was a dissapointing moment as I thought it would be a quick & easy fix. Noticed recently that I'm getting a black residue when bleeding at the M/C and assume this is possibly due to the seals starting to break down???

Neutral is totally possible when it's not running but a total pain (3 or 4 attempts) before you can hit it when the enigines running. Starting to adopt the 'snick it in just before coming to a halt' method but the whole issue tarnishes what is otherwise a good bike.

I will bleed following your instructions and pierce the boot as suggested - will report back on the results!!

Thanks again:thumbup

The black in the fluid is normal. It's aluminium staining from the M/C/Slave
Same black that comes off if you polish aluminium.
 
Thanks for the reply Spoonz. It was/is a genuine 06 - waited 3 months for delivery!!!! - I've had the jet out and confirmed it is a '.40' - that was a dissapointing moment as I thought it would be a quick & easy fix. Noticed recently that I'm getting a black residue when bleeding at the M/C and assume this is possibly due to the seals starting to break down???

Neutral is totally possible when it's not running but a total pain (3 or 4 attempts) before you can hit it when the enigines running. Starting to adopt the 'snick it in just before coming to a halt' method but the whole issue tarnishes what is otherwise a good bike.

I will bleed following your instructions and pierce the boot as suggested - will report back on the results!!

Thanks again:thumbup
What a crock!!! I sympathise with all those with clutch problems. I have an 03 (reg. 05) 4000 miler. I have to bleed the clutch every bleedin week. Starts by difficult selection of neutral when stationary soon to be followed by impossible to select neutral. Lever then comes right back to the grip and bike then unrideable until bled. Now have to carry bleed kit with me at all times. What's wrong with good old fashioned cable! I see some folk suggest MPL slave cyl, different jet etc etc.,. If I carry on like this most of the bike will be non Aprilia in the end. Have replaced "restrictive air box with one from Hooked, Different front sprocket to cure the original's apalling characteristics in traffic, Dr. Rossi chip to improve general running and pick-up yadi yadi ya........ Where will it all end? Another bike probably! Sorry about the whinge guys but feel a little better now. Aprilia must be delighted with all this development work you chaps are doing. Long may you carry on. Perhaps they should have got it right in the 1st place.
 
The MPL slave is a good mod that makes gear work in town very smooth and bearable and having to bleed as often as you say indicates and underling fault somewhere in your MC or lines.
 
I know what you mean. Especially noticed that the new RSV4 has a cable clutch.....

I've been over the whole system and changed the slave banjo bleeder (again) - slight weeping around the slave bleed nipple - will see how it goes from there. Thorough bleed thorugh with DOT 5.1 - M/C rotated to highest point on bars - lever secured to bars for approx. 1hr and then cracked the bleed nipple - few small bubbles but all gone.

Bugger, the curry's ready so I'll have to give it a run tomorrow. Many thanks for all of the advice - will report back on the results.
 
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It's definitely better but certainly not as good as it used to be. I can still only guarantee getting neutral coming down from 2nd & not going up from 1st. There is also quite a 'clunk' from neutral to 1st, again not as good as it used to be - like I'm not getting total disengagement of the clutch plates. Bike only has 5k on it so it's not wear!!

Having spoken to some suppliers re: a new M/C - the consistent story I'm getting is that by fitting the larger MPL slave cylinder (31mm as opposed to 28mm for the original) I've exaggerated any problems which would have been there before....this led me to look at the ratio between M/C sizes and the MPL slave. Effectively, the nearest I can get to the original ratio (given the sizes available) is to move to an 18mm M/C. This will undoubtedly require a stronger wrist.......:jack
 
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