Joined Oct 2010
72 Posts | 0+
Gateshead
Just in case anyone else has the same problem, I'd thought I'd give you the benefit of my experience of late as I couldn't find the same symptoms whilst searching this forum (unless I looked incorrectly, which is possible).
I’d not started my bike (std. RSV 2003 model) in over 5 to 6 weeks and it was not hooked up to my optimate...doh!. Key in, switch to on position, dash lights come on, fuel pump primes, everything as normal. Thumb the starter switch, the starter tries to turn the engine over for a nano second, then nothing, dead. No dashboard display, no lights, no horn, no indicators etc. So seat off and check the voltage on the battery which was over 13 volts. I put the optimate on overnight as it was too cold to do any more investigating. Next night the optimate says the battery is in good condition and there is still over 13 volts, but still no dashboard display or anything. I also noted that when I switched the ignition off the tacho needle flicked a little causing a clicking noise, about 10 times. Fuses were okay, so off with the battery terminals, clean and connect back up, still no joy. Checked the earth continuity from the battery to the engine, which was okay. Then off with the front fairing to check the connector to the dash, but looked okay. Decided to take the battery from my Triumph Daytona 600, connected it up, dashboard lights up, pump primes, yee hah. But (theres always a but) the battery is smaller on the Triumph Daytona 600 and it just didn’t have enough oomph to turn it over quickly. But at least I’d sussed out it was a duff battery and no other gremlin in the works.
Moral of the story is just because the optimate says your battery is in good condition and your volt meter reads over 13 volts after one night on trickle charge, doesn’t mean your battery is okay. A load test would have sussed this out at the local motorist discount store.
Keep it on an optimate all the time!.......off I go to buy a new battery.
I’d not started my bike (std. RSV 2003 model) in over 5 to 6 weeks and it was not hooked up to my optimate...doh!. Key in, switch to on position, dash lights come on, fuel pump primes, everything as normal. Thumb the starter switch, the starter tries to turn the engine over for a nano second, then nothing, dead. No dashboard display, no lights, no horn, no indicators etc. So seat off and check the voltage on the battery which was over 13 volts. I put the optimate on overnight as it was too cold to do any more investigating. Next night the optimate says the battery is in good condition and there is still over 13 volts, but still no dashboard display or anything. I also noted that when I switched the ignition off the tacho needle flicked a little causing a clicking noise, about 10 times. Fuses were okay, so off with the battery terminals, clean and connect back up, still no joy. Checked the earth continuity from the battery to the engine, which was okay. Then off with the front fairing to check the connector to the dash, but looked okay. Decided to take the battery from my Triumph Daytona 600, connected it up, dashboard lights up, pump primes, yee hah. But (theres always a but) the battery is smaller on the Triumph Daytona 600 and it just didn’t have enough oomph to turn it over quickly. But at least I’d sussed out it was a duff battery and no other gremlin in the works.
Moral of the story is just because the optimate says your battery is in good condition and your volt meter reads over 13 volts after one night on trickle charge, doesn’t mean your battery is okay. A load test would have sussed this out at the local motorist discount store.
Keep it on an optimate all the time!.......off I go to buy a new battery.
