Bike Won't Start! HELP!!!!

If you've bridged the solenoid terminals and the bike turns over then the fault would appear to be with solenoid. You say you've replaced the solenoid?

Was the solenoid new,if so i think its time to take it back.If youve bridged the solenoid and the bike turns over it must be a faulty one :dunno

Your battery may also be goosed. The simple rule is if the bike turns over when the solenoid terminals are bridged and not when the starter is pressed, then it's a faulty solenoid. Go for the Yamaha one. Do a search. If no joy when bridging the terminals then more than likely it low battery voltage either because the bike's not kept on an Optimate battery conditioner or as i've said the battery is knackered

Another helpful extract from a member : irate

Checking a charging system
________________________________________
How to troubleshoot a charging system.

Okay, before I start, there's a few things that you guys need to know. First is that I'm expecting that you have a general knowledge of how electricity works. If all you know for electricity is how to change the remote control batteries, then don't even attempt this. Just take it to the shop. Second is you need to have at least a digital multimeter with ADC, VDC, VAC, Resistance, and a Diode setting.


First start out with 5 tests to verify that there is indeed a charging system problem.

1. Battery Voltage. - Key off: between 12 - 13VDC.
2. Key off Amp Draw - At the main fuse: < (less than) 1ADC
3. Key on Amp Draw - At the main fuse: Results will vary because of different loads.
*Note - DO NOT START THE BIKE WITH YOUR METER IN PLACE OF THE MAIN FUSE! Also, if you can not acces the main fuse, put your postive meter lead on the red wire at the solenoid, and put your negative meter lead on the positive battery lead. This way you will be able to get your amperage readings AND let you start the bike without blowing your fuse.* Charging amperage should be at least 1 ADC
4. Break even speed - The RPM in which the charging voltage at the battery turns positive - Should be before Idle
5. Charging voltage at the battery - Between 13 - 15 VDC.
6. Max charging RPM. - There should be an RPM where your bike's charging voltage plateau's off. Usually its around like 4k RPM. If it doesn't, then replace your regulator/rectifier immediately.

Number 5 is basically going to be your deciding test. The numbers there, could vary, but it needs to be higher than your result for number 1. If its not, then you have a charging system problem, if it is and your battery won't stay charged, then you either have an unwanted draw from somewhere, or your battery is bad. So lets say that your bike isn't charging. Here's where we go from here.

Stator check - The 3 yellow or white wires all together. Unplug them, and turn the bike on. Go 1 to 2, 1 to 3 and 2 to 3 with your leads, and all of your reults should be within about 25% of each other on VAC. EMS should be done with it plugged in. Next turn the bike off, and with the stator still unplugged, do an IB test on it. On Ohms, Each lead to ground. All should be OFL. If you get anything, then you probably have a bad stator. Next do an resistance test. Again, test all 3 like you did before, and you should get between .2 and 2.5 ohms for each. If you get one that is WAY WAY off in left field for any of the tests, then you probably have a bad stator.

Regulator/Rectifier - That's the little box that has the fins on it that the stator connects to. Put your meter on the Diode setting, and unplug the rectifier. There's gonna be 5 wires comming out of the Reg/Rec: the 3 to the stator, and a red one and a ground wire. To do the diode tests, put your red lead on the red wire. Then go to the 3 that plug into the stator. 1,2,3 tests, then switch your meter leads and do the same thing. You should have OL for one of the ways, and a small voltage for the other. Then move to the ground wire, and do the same tests, switch leads again and test again. You should have 12 tests total because of the 6 diodes in there. For each of the red and ground wires, you should have OL for 3 of the tests, and a small voltage for the other 3, like I just said. If all that checks out, then your rectifier is good. Next plug everything back in, and check your ground wire connection from the Rec/rec. Make sure you check it as close to the reg/rec body as you can, cuz there could be a break in the wire or something. If there's an open, then locate it, and repair as necessary. Do the same with the red wire to the batter positive terminal, as that's where that one goes.
If everything checks out good, then you either missed something, have a bad connection somewhere, or have a bad regulator. You should be able to detect the bad regulator from one of the tests that you did at the very start.
Save some money and do your own checks, you might just find the problem that the bike shop is going to charge £££

YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK AND NOT MINE :thumbup

And this is class :biggrin

disarm your alarm, confirm that your LED stops flashing, (if your bike has not been used for over two weeks, switch your ignition on first to wake the alarm up, then off then arm and disarm).

Switch your ignition on, do you hear your fuel pump prime for about 5 seconds, if no your fault is either kill switch in wrong position/ faulty,alarm, tip over sensor, fuel pump, fuel pump relay or ecu. Further assistance will be given on this when required.

Press your starter button,do you get multiple clicks, if you do its your battery thats flat or a loose connection, a weak battery does not have the power to make the solenoid work it tries but fails often this is the clicking sound you hear, dont give me yer pish about it being a new battery or just off charge, you are doing it wrong, multiple clicks are a sign of a duff battery an nothing else, if you are a poor wee misguided arse wipe that thinks you have just taken the bike off your optimate then read the feckin instructions for your optimate (highlights below). A green light on an optimate doesn't mean the battery is OK.

If its a new battery then did the shop charge it for eight hours on a trickle charger or did you walk in say "i want a new battery" they filled it with acid and gave it to you, no 8 hour charge means your battery will not last as long as it could.

Optimate, great wee ****** but you need to read the instructions, if you dont power on and off it does not condition yer battery, you have wasted your money for a wee plastic ornament, every time you connect to an optimate you must switch it off and on again to reset the conditioning cycle.

What fecker was going on about diagnostic plugs, the diagnostics are only concerned with the fuel injection there is no a code for the starter solenoid. There is no fault code 0,1 or -1 this is the setting for yer throttle position sensor it is not a fault code.

Right then where was i, your fuel pump primes, remember that noise, when you press the start button do you hear a single click but the starter motor does not turn, you hear the same whooshing noise that your fuel pump priming makes, that means your solenoid is probably fecked, this can beconfirmed by shorting out the two terminals on the solenoid with your ignition on this will enable you to start the bike,

if you dont hear a single click then it is probably your solenoid control voltage that is ******, test by putting a multimeter or lamp over the little multiplug on the solenoid between the yellow/red and the purple/black you should get 12V only when the start button is pressed if you dont the fault is in your switch, control logic, side stand switch, clutch switch diode block etc, further assistance will be given when ye post saying "I dont get 12V on my multiplug when the button is pressed"

The sprag clutch woes will not prevent the bike from starting, it is a mechanical noise which gets louder as time goes on it also gets more expensive the longer you leave it



as usual the internet is a dangerous place, don't assume because the solenoid is a known fault that that is what is wrong with your bike, do the checks above post yer results an we will get ye sorted.

Dont assume that because someone says their business is motorbikes that they know best for example people who come on and say that an optimate discharges a battery what the **** sort of info is that, a battery charger that discharges a battery , for the record an optimate measures the level and rate of discharge of a battery and sets the charging current appropriately, once the green light is on it reverts to a trickle charge, this is called conditioning

A great write up from the "The Laird"