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bike set up!

Joined Apr 2011
24 Posts | 0+
bridgwater, somerset
Greetings,
I'm new to all this and I'm hoping someone can help..i've been looking on the web for ages trying to sort the handling problems on my mille.
The bike was running on pirelli's diablo corsa rosso's, which were awful, however was set up by Steve at peak performance in exeter, the bike now running on 2cts which i've had on other bikes and have improved the bike no end..the only problem now is the fact now I'm able to push her the bike wallows in turns and wants to run wide..can anyone help? I've tried different pressures..I fell its gotta be down to set up..i've heard raising the bike up through the yikes can help..I love the bike and wanna get it sorted..any ideas what I can try??
Cheers guys and *****
 
Hi,
Not able to help im afraid as I am struggling too with the same tyres. Been messing with the damping and improved it a lot but still not fully confident leaning it right over or going into bends at speed. As you say, it feels sort of wallowy and bouncy mid corner.
Will keep an eye on this post in case anyone has any good tips.
I have read somewhere that these tyres have a lot of flex and thus people put a lot more air in them. I am a bit dubious about changing from the aprilia recommended pressures tho.
Hope you get some good pointers.
George
 
Hi George,
Cheers for that, yeah i've spoken with michelin, and they recommend going with the pressures set by aprilia, or just slight differences either way. Now I have tried upping the pressure slightly, and would not recommend it cos it just makes the ride too harsh and unforgiving..the wallow remains as does the running wide..gonna try the pressures the other way 32/34 ish and see how that feels..I had the tyres on a gsxr1000 running the recommended pressures and the bike handled amazingly, never gave the tyres a thought..gonna speak with Steve at peak performance on Tuesday and see what he says/recommends..i'll keep ya posted..its gotta be down to set up...
Cheers
Russ
 
wallowing is the suspension loading and loading which would suggest it is set too soft for your weight/riding.

the running wide is likely to be connected, as the lower the rear end the slower the rate of turning.

I have an 02 R with an adjustable length shock and lengthening the shock (raising the rear) makes noticeable difference in the turn in speed, the same goes for the (static sag) of the forks static sag sets the normal ride height of the front and again needs to be set for your weight and riding style.

you have a couple of choices.

pay someone to set it up for you and if they are doing this in a workshop without you doing several runs between then they are only giving you a starting point.

or

do some research and set the bike up yourself, it easy to find a base setting you just need to understand what each adjustment does and the effects it has on the bikes handling which includes steering.
 
i think mine needs the back ebd raising to make it turn in quicker as mine runs wide and you have to really try to get it to go where you want it to! im not running michelins tho im on bridgestones, tyre pressures are checked and at normal pressures. i would love to have the perfect setup even if it is a base setting or somewhere to start from. ill keep an eye on this thread as im really interested to see whats said.
 
the trouble is what most riders want is for someone to come along and list the so say perfect settings. but they won't be for you as there are too many variables.

If you want to understand and up or fine tune the suspension yourself then here is a good place to start.
www.sportrider.com

in one of the links they do give suggested settings and it won't hurt to use them as a starting point.

Before you start to adjust anything Rule No1?
make a note of your current settings just in case you get a bit lost you can easily put it back where it was.
 
Set all the suspension settings as the the owners manual! stock settings work well the only thing you will need to change is a bit more preload on the rear shock if you are heavier than the 11 to12 stone that bike makers seem to think we all weigh! Remember a previous owner may well have altered things from stock! If you are running wide check you have 4 rings (stock road setting) on the forks showing above the yokes, if the rest of the suspension is set as the book and 4 rings showing is still running wide try 5 rings(race setting) Also check that a previous owner hasnt lowered the bike with an dog bone conversion (that will ruin the handling!) Nearly all makes of bike handle better on stock settings! If you tyres are in good condition they will have very little effect on "wallowing" and running wide your problem is almost certainly settings or a worn out shock and or knackered fork oil!
 
Yep, i'd agree. firstly i would make sure the settings are returned to standard. as said above, it is important to note down the settings as they are now (as you got it), then change them to standard and also write this down. any subsequent changes you make - note it all down. this will help in the long run and, as mentioned, it can all be returned to how it was before if it all goes pete tong.
One thing to consider is the suspension may just be worn out and be in need of a service. i would say if its an older bike theres a good chance the suspension has never been opened up from the day it was made !
Im no expert on suspension but i know the first thing to set before anything is sag. search on the net/youtube and you should find all the info you need.
 
i have already set my settings back to standard and it was ok but to soft for me! what length is the standard dog bones/links? as i feel the back end needs raising abit maybe 10-15mm. i feel it needs this as have set other bikes up for the track before and find it not as sharp as it should be. i have just bought the bike and in the history it says nothing of a suspension overhaul so think next week i will try and change the fork oil and have a play with the rear shock. iam only 11 stone so im on the lighter side for an average rider.
 
Cheers chaps, I'm on a mission to sort this..unfortunately when I bought the bike there was no manual, so I had no idea what the standard ohlins set up was..the bike also had very squared off tyres and pretty much stood up by itself!! Steve at peak sorted the sag and set up giving a starting point. I know for a fact the fork oil wouldn't have been changed but first things first, get the suspension sorted..anyone know the standard factory ohlins set up?
 
the owners handbook states

Front

the top alen key adjuster turn it clockwise counting the clicks until it stops (write down the number of clicks) then turn it anti-clockwise 8 clicks

the bottom alen key adjuster again turning clockwise and counting until it stops (write the number down) then turn it anti-clockwise 12 clicks

repeat on each fork.

just for the record the standard front preload setting (the nut on the top of the fork) is clockwise until it stops then anticlockwise 8 complete turns

standard sees 3 rings on the fork tubes above the top yoke or 12mm

steering damper adjustment clockwise until it stops then anti-clockwise 5 clicks

THE REAR

the shock is adjustable in length it is adjusted using the nut and lock nut at the very bottom of the shock the standard shock length is 322mm from the centre of the top bush to the centre of the bottom bush (v difficult to measure on the bike)

the std rear preload should see a spring length of 137mm

the adjuster at the bottom of the rear shock should be turned clockwise (counting and recording) until it stops then turned anti-clockwise 14 clicks

the adjuster at the top of the shock again turned clockwise until it stops then anti clockwise 12 clicks

once you have the bike set to standard go out and ride it (carefuly) it may or may not handle very differently.
Aprilia give the same advice as i have the above settings are base settings and you should adjust your suspension through a series of road tests (thier words not mine) but only ever adjust one or two clicks at a time when fine tuning you would be surprised how much difference a click can make

Happy clicking

if you fork oil is old replace it or you are wasting your time the book recomends 10w fork oil my personal opinion is this is too heavy for our cold climate and many R owners use 7.5w or even 5w
it is reletivly easy to replace your fork oil.
 
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hello mate do check your fork oil,done mine yesterday the oil was black and horrible dont know when it was last done!!!!took it out today feels like a different bike:thumbup
 
That sounds good to me..bet its never been done and with resemble what you found..however not done this before so i'll need to check how to do it..is it a pain in the arse or relatively straight forward to change the oil..what weight of oil did you go for?
Cheers
Russ
 
Finally got mine sorted. It feels great now.
I set all compression and rebound to the stock settings. Then increased the rebound damping on the forks by 2 or 3 clicks, cant remember which.
I think not enough rebound damping was the big problem as the forks were extending too quickly making the bike reluctant to turn.
The wallowing seems to be cured too.
Being 14 stone I had already increased preload at both ends but did not notice the warning in the manual which advises increasing rebound damping when preload is increased.
Looks like it was a good tip. Hope this helps someone else.
George
 
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