Help! replaced pads front and back on my 2000 rsvr, changed fluid's also, front no problem's, but the back can't get pressure on it at all:dunno anyone had same trouble.:rant
Back Brake?? RSVR 2000.
- Thread starter longfingers
- Start date
Joined Jul 2009
612 Posts | 0+
Gosport-Hampshire
I've got a similar problem mate on my 2002 mille. Bike only passed MOT last week, I brought it on Sunday and when I went for the rear on Monday nothing. So I pushed a little harder and there seemed to be a little click or something and now I have nothing at all:dunno
Sorry for jumping on your thread long fingers:thumbup
Sorry for jumping on your thread long fingers:thumbup
long and pompey - check out the how too's
brake bleeding guide there - prob need clutch doing too aswell
both bad systems - hardly what you'd expect from world leaders like brembo
brake bleeding guide there - prob need clutch doing too aswell
both bad systems - hardly what you'd expect from world leaders like brembo
Same prob on 04 factory.Passed mot after dealer bled rear brake,two days later no brake! Ive followed links on this site and succesfully bled the system but it only works for a couple of days then prob returns.Even when working the brake on my pushbike is better!What excuse do you give if pulled?Poor show brembo!!
Got it!! took caliper off and hung it on exhaust bracket, "higher than reservoir", then bled it, so far so good.
I get enough pressure for slow speed riding, thats it. I've cleaned it, bled it, checked the pads, the master cyclinder has been moved and the reservoir. At least it won't lock up if I use it at speed.
Remember the bleed valve is upside down and tapping with mallett gets a few last bubble out.
Mine doesn't work well after a run as I think it gets too hot. Thinking of some heat shielding.
Mine doesn't work well after a run as I think it gets too hot. Thinking of some heat shielding.
I AGREE, I KNOW THEY PUT A LEVER THERE, THOUGHT THAT WAS JUST THERE FOR A FOOTREST:dunno
I can't see a proplem here,if the brake is assembled and bled PROPERLY it works fine,same as the clutch.
The only difference to some other bikes is the position of the bleed nipple on the rear brake cylinder which requires a slightly different tecnique to get the last few bubbles out.
I seem to think some Duc's use the same cyl in the same position so presumably the same conditions apply to them as well.
The only design **** up was omitting a heat shield between master cylinder & exhaust pipe,and this can be corrected by spending a couple of quid with RSVR Racing.
I haven't tried the brakes under track conditions yet but they both surely work very well on my bike on the road.
As to the clutch,the same thing applies,it is no more difficult to bleed than any other,just follow the correct procedure. There is enough written about these so called 'problems' that people seem to be assuming the worst rather than just following the laid down routines.
They are simple hydraulic circuits it ain't rocket science. :dunno
The only difference to some other bikes is the position of the bleed nipple on the rear brake cylinder which requires a slightly different tecnique to get the last few bubbles out.
I seem to think some Duc's use the same cyl in the same position so presumably the same conditions apply to them as well.
The only design **** up was omitting a heat shield between master cylinder & exhaust pipe,and this can be corrected by spending a couple of quid with RSVR Racing.
I haven't tried the brakes under track conditions yet but they both surely work very well on my bike on the road.
As to the clutch,the same thing applies,it is no more difficult to bleed than any other,just follow the correct procedure. There is enough written about these so called 'problems' that people seem to be assuming the worst rather than just following the laid down routines.
They are simple hydraulic circuits it ain't rocket science. :dunno
Push the pads right back as far as they will go and wedge a bit of wood in there whilst bleeding, take the exhaust off and the brake hose to allow the caliper to be raised right up to the seat height, bleed as normal and use DOT 4 only
As Ian said they are just a hydraulic system and need to have all bubbles removed
As Ian said they are just a hydraulic system and need to have all bubbles removed
That's seem's to be the only way,Badger, I put new pads in everything cleaned and coppaslip "where needed" then exhaust off, hang caliper on bracket, and put a file between pads and bled the system. It worked, but the back brake is *****, full stop.
Just wedge the brake pedal in the fully on postion over night with the caliiper in the higher than stock position and in the morning, you will have a excellent rear brake.
Don't ask me why it works, it just does. I had no rear brake whatsoever, and was going to waste money buying a complete rear brake setup, but figured i had nothing to lose but try it, and now my rear brake is better than my zxr.
Don't ask me why it works, it just does. I had no rear brake whatsoever, and was going to waste money buying a complete rear brake setup, but figured i had nothing to lose but try it, and now my rear brake is better than my zxr.
