Joined Dec 2007
158 Posts | 0+
Bristol, UK
This thread documents my experience of fitting ARD track bodywork. It has been conolidated from a couple of other posts, and hyperlinks to off-site pictures (to mintain resolution).
I fitted an ARD fairing and seat to my stock MY2006 RSV1000R Factory. The ARD kit is glass fibre; as such it's inherently more rigid than the stock ABS panels. Ally this to the fact that they've amalgamated several of the original panels into one (to keep costs down), it means the ARD panels can be troublesome (but not impossible) to fit. That said, the kit is of good quality.
General
Electrics mount
I wanted to retain my stock electrics, so I thought it best to place them in the same position. I fabricated two struts out of 3mm alloy for the main supports, which attach to the air snorkel. You will need longer snorkel fixing screws to accommodate the extra thickness of these plates. I also rivited a separate plate for the relays, fuses and solenoid out of a separate piece of alloy sheet (1.5mm) sheet. This was a bit of a lash-up as I was pressed for time and it was all I had in the garage. I've since acquired the genuine ABS inner fairings (fleaBay) and will replace this with parts of the genuine bits. Easy enough if you have the tools. REMEMBER TO CUT AWAY THE RHS INNER VENT TO GIVE THE REGULATOR A FLOW OF COOL AIR.
Struts top
Struts underneath
Struts in situ front
Struts in situ top
Struts in situ left
Garage
right front left
Track
left right
I fitted an ARD fairing and seat to my stock MY2006 RSV1000R Factory. The ARD kit is glass fibre; as such it's inherently more rigid than the stock ABS panels. Ally this to the fact that they've amalgamated several of the original panels into one (to keep costs down), it means the ARD panels can be troublesome (but not impossible) to fit. That said, the kit is of good quality.
General
- The ARD-supplied slot-head fairing screws are paint removers - better using the OEM cap-heads; ARD's advice was NOT to use alloy Dzus fasteners, as these aren't strong enough.
- My top & bottom fairings and seat required some of the holes to be elongated to fit. You need a helper for this job - essentially someone to hold the work when you get your drill going.
- It has no side-stand aperture - you'll need a jigsaw to cut a piece out of the belly-pan if you want to retain the side-stand.
- No main mounts are supplied for the top fairing (no holes either) - requires Screw w/flange M6*16* AP8152246 (4-off) to attach to mirror brackets;
- Screen holes need drilling; fit these from the nose of the screen backwards - one on each side.
- No mounts supplied for LHS{relay*2, immobiliser control} and RHS{relay, aux. fuses, air-flap solenoid, regulator}. I made my own - see below.
- Cut-away the right-inner vent hole to cool voltage regulator.
- The seat unit is single piece and barely flexible. The shafts are grade one tank scratchers - put socks over them when mounting. Because it's one-piece, there's about a 15mm air gap on either side of the seat under-tray to allow fitting.
- I found the OEM mounting screws to the sides of the oil coolers too short, and replaced them with long panel screws.
Electrics mount
I wanted to retain my stock electrics, so I thought it best to place them in the same position. I fabricated two struts out of 3mm alloy for the main supports, which attach to the air snorkel. You will need longer snorkel fixing screws to accommodate the extra thickness of these plates. I also rivited a separate plate for the relays, fuses and solenoid out of a separate piece of alloy sheet (1.5mm) sheet. This was a bit of a lash-up as I was pressed for time and it was all I had in the garage. I've since acquired the genuine ABS inner fairings (fleaBay) and will replace this with parts of the genuine bits. Easy enough if you have the tools. REMEMBER TO CUT AWAY THE RHS INNER VENT TO GIVE THE REGULATOR A FLOW OF COOL AIR.
Struts top
Struts underneath
Struts in situ front
Struts in situ top
Struts in situ left
Garage
right front left
Track
left right
