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Ard racing fairing questions?

Joined Jul 2009
253 Posts | 0+
Wirral
For all you guys who have ard race fairing im after a bit of help. I tried to put my fairings on yesterday and had a nightmere of a time.

Question 1

Why can't i get the tail unit to fit flush with the standard undertray? It leaves a cap of about a inch.

Question 2

What electrics can i get away with taking off at the front end, as i had to remove the two fairing infills that hold all the electrics, Rectifier, fuses etc??

Question 3

I had to take of the air airtake grill at the front to get the front fairing to fit. This however leaves a gap. What did you use to fill it?

Any tips will be a bonus!
 
For all you guys who have ard race fairing im after a bit of help. I tried to put my fairings on yesterday and had a nightmere of a time.

Question 1

Why can't i get the tail unit to fit flush with the standard undertray? It leaves a cap of about a inch.

Question 2

What electrics can i get away with taking off at the front end, as i had to remove the two fairing infills that hold all the electrics, Rectifier, fuses etc??

Question 3

I had to take of the air airtake grill at the front to get the front fairing to fit. This however leaves a gap. What did you use to fill it?

Any tips will be a bonus!

1 It is race bodywork so is not perfect, pic of mine if it helps

bikebits001.jpg


2 You don't remove the black plastic infills they fit inside the ARD race fairing, leave the regulator and relays attached to the black plastic holder lile so

bikebits004-1.jpg


bikebits003.jpg


3 Don't bother with filling it, if you do it is only something else to replace if you come off, this is mine

bikebits004.jpg


HTH:thumbup
 
Assuming this is all going on your '06 Factory, it sounds a bit odd to me....
Question 1
Why can't i get the tail unit to fit flush with the standard undertray? It leaves a cap of about a inch.
To quote ARD:
"[...] the original bodywork is made from injected moulded ABS plastic, which is relatively pliable and malleable, while replacement bodywork is made from glass fibre plastic which is quite rigid and non flexible.
[...]
The seat is made in one piece and therefore fitting issues are created once again.
We cannot make the aperture any smaller because it would not go over the subframe, particularly as there is no 'stretch' in the seat.
Consequently that means that the seat does not mate with the undertray and therefore it is accepted as an unfortunate compromise.
Ideally we do not want these issues but to try to design them out would mean more parts and hence more cost and we are trying to work to a finite cost/quality parameter."


My seat is the same fit as Badger's, only I haven't made any cut-aways. I'd say it's secure, but it won't take any strain!
picture.php

Question 2
What electrics can i get away with taking off at the front end, as i had to remove the two fairing infills that hold all the electrics, Rectifier, fuses etc??
This is more difficult, but not unsolvable.
I made up some brackets and pop-riveted the shaped mounts from a spare pair of fairing in-fills onto them.
picture.php


These fit nice and snugly down the flanks of the ARD top unit (don't forget to cut away the vent for the rectifier).
picture.php


picture.php


picture.php

Question 3
I had to take of the air airtake grill at the front to get the front fairing to fit. This however leaves a gap. What did you use to fill it?
I left mine on! I had not problem slotting it into the fairing - though it is a little snug. Whether you leave the 'duct' in place as I have done, or just have the in-duct grille, like Badger has done, I think it wise to have one 'bird strainer' in place.
picture.php
 
badger/brg your worth your wait in gold lads, this solves my problems! Thanks guys!!!!!
 
hstephen5, be sure to post a few pix when you get it sorted, won't you?

It'd be good to let us know when you're taking to track too, just in case anyone from here is going too.
 
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