Another Brake Thread

[Posh Johnny]

Following on from a link to Aprillia forums on how to loose the constant need to bleed your rear brake all the time, I thought I would photo our own how to.
Here is what I did.

My rear peddle had no compression at all, even constant pumping would not move the calipers at all.
So I removed the right hand side fairing to reveal the master cylinder

Then I removed the banjo bolt from the right side of the master cylinder, then undo the 2 8mm bolts from the bottom of the cylinder

Then the angled plastic part needs to be removed from the top, I used pliers to get enough grip, make sure you do not get and brake fluid in your eyes

Once removed you will notice that the bore size is about 3mm, we are going to open it out to 4.5mm, I think all I could find was a 4mm drill, but it seems to have done the job

Rebuild the cylinder back up and refit to your bike, then bleed, you would benefit from pulling the fluid through with a syringe, also remove and invert your caliper to ensure all air is removed

I puled trough about 5 cap fulls before I got a good bite from my pedal.

Hey Presto, I now have a fully operational brake, I will est it on my up coming trip.
Feel free to add to this how to, I will move it into the how to forum once I have proved it out.

Hope that helps

 

[heroblob]

Nice to see a set of clean fingernails.
Quality photo set PJ, explains everything clearly. did you degas the fluid as i decribed in the post a couple of days ago.
At the moment my rear break is good and firm, just dos't have a lot of stopping power, certainly couldn't lock it up. would trust it long on a hill either, but certainly not spongy at all. so i am loathed to touch mine yet, incase it goes the other way. but if such time it fails this thread will be of good use.:thumbup Well done.

 

[rs3 mille]

you havn't drilled the holes on your mastercyclinder and tilted it down yet by the looks of your thread?
ask everyone on here who has done that aka myself/ l ittle1uk/badboy/millesrsv69 if there brake has ever given up the ghost and they will tell you its the best brake they have had and doesn't cost anything just 10 mins of your time
have to watch out i dont lock it up it is that good:doug

 

[Posh Johnny]

Littleone posted about that then deleted it, I thought I would try the above first, then if that fails then I would open the others up.
I could add it to this how to, as you say just as well whilst it is off :thumbup

 

[heroblob]

rs3 was you posting to me. if you where, no i haven't done any of the break mods yet, as i don't appear to have the same symptons as others. my rear break is very firm to press, which would indicate no air in the system. just dosn't have a brilliant breaking effect. was considering changing the pads to something a little more agressive, like EBC HH. used them in the front of both my kwakas, they wre excellent, but didn,t use them in the rear due to being agressive. those bikes had phenominal rear breaks.

 

[rs3 mille]

rs3 was you posting to me. if you where, no i haven't done any of the break mods yet, as i don't appear to have the same symptons as others. my rear break is very firm to press, which would indicate no air in the system. just dosn't have a brilliant breaking effect. was considering changing the pads to something a little more agressive, like EBC HH. used them in the front of both my kwakas, they wre excellent, but didn,t use them in the rear due to being agressive. those bikes had phenominal rear breaks.

mate wasn't aimed at you, my advice would be don't touch it till it goes (and it will go trust me). i run ebc hh in the rear and fook it locks up easily have just recently put them in. my rear was ***** untill i spoke to don and andy(southern cross) (early in the year)while i was getting a tyre they thought they would try it as a tester (i didn't mind trust them)as this was there solution to aprilia's problem and by fook it works then i told a few people who have tried this and nobody 's back brake has gone yet and all are **** hot:doug

 

[heroblob]

i deffinately think i will give the doulbe hs' a go.

 

[rs3 mille]

Littleone posted about that then deleted it, I thought I would try the above first, then if that fails then I would open the others up.
I could add it to this how to, as you say just as well whilst it is off :thumbup

it is simply a case of drilling the holes on the mastercylinder itself where the bolts go through to secure it to the mount(not the mount it has threads in it)then tilt the front downwards and tighten the bolts up so the front of the cyclinder is lower than the rear in theory if any air is trapped it moves upwards and out:thumbup
worked on everybodys so far then bleed as you have been doing with the rear caliper higher than the reservoir:thumbup

 

[little1uk]

Littleone posted about that then deleted it, I thought I would try the above first, then if that fails then I would open the others up.
I could add it to this how to, as you say just as well whilst it is off :thumbup

Went to edit it and like a *** deleted it by mistake, can you pull it back up PJ :dunno

 

[Posh Johnny]

:thumbup

 

[Badger]

Best to do the fluid reservoir at the same time PJ, it's a 10 minute job max.

Good write up and pleased to see you manicured your nails before the photo shoot:thumbup

 

[Beau1K]

I don't think the problem stems from lack of fluid getting through...i.e. the need for a larger hole. I think it's more about the position of the master and it overheating the fluid causing air bubbles.

Get the Sato Type II rear sets Relocate the master and eliminate the problem for good!!

 

[Posh Johnny]

I don't think the problem stems from lack of fluid getting through...i.e. the need for a larger hole. I think it's more about the position of the master and it overheating the fluid causing air bubbles.

Get the Sato Type II rear sets Relocate the master and eliminate the problem for good!!

Agreed, this is just a cost effective method of improving things to those who do not have the cash to go the whole hog and sort it correctly, I will report on it's success over the following months

 

[millersvr69]

Mines awesome these days :thumbup

 

[B o B]

it is simply a case of drilling the holes on the mastercylinder itself where the bolts go through to secure it to the mount(not the mount it has threads in it)then tilt the front downwards and tighten the bolts up so the front of the cyclinder is lower than the rear in theory if any air is trapped it moves upwards and out:thumbup
worked on everybodys so far then bleed as you have been doing with the rear caliper higher than the reservoir:thumbup

That's a great tip. I'd heard of this but I'd never noticed which way it needed tilted. That, coupled with poshjohhnie's tip and installing EBC HHs should sort it out. :thumbup

I have to say, my brake has never been bad - just not good. Thanks again guys.