And you thought your back brake was bad...

Everyone is always complaining about how crappy the rear brake is on these bikes...








fastest i ever stopped on the back brake!!! :biggrin

thats the story behind my galfer wave disc, it was not much more expensive than getting a stock replacement disc, just for the record, putting sintered pads in made a huge difference i found, not sure but i dont think the standard pads are sintered material



and dont worry, yours probably wont do that, unless you're a complete **** and mess around with stuff you shouldn't :doh

:wow im not alone then..

bad luck m8, hope you stayed upright like me, i keep the rainbow disc on display in the garage.. i tried everything to get the crap off the disc but nothing was sorting it, honestly i wouldnt expect using new pads on a disc like that will work very well. someone did tell me its possible to get a disc re-shimmed or something, but it would have cost almost as much as a replacement disc.

we live and learn eh :thumbup

well i already knew what happened which caused my stupid adjustment to burn out the rear brake, didnt use loctite after bleeding though and i tend to prefer 'reverse bleeding' or whatever you want to call it, where you force fluid up through the bottom and it seems to get the lil bubbles out easier (probably as the fluid moves the same way bubbles wanting to go..) though you still have to bleed the calliper in similar fashion to that mentioned above...

doug, i have tried messing with the clutch lever span to (it doesnt work in the same way as the rear push rod we seemed to have too much fun adjusting) and found it was a bloody nightmare in heavy traffic at slow speeds! This bike just doesnt like to slowly slip the clutch all the way out... not to me anyway, the clutch sucks compared to the one on my lil 50 which happily slips all the way out at full throttle

when i discovered my adjustment gave me not just a functional rear brake but a really sharp one i went for a good long ride in the hot summers sun, even managed a wheelie, though it did come down a bit harder than normal hehe :biggrin then about a mile later on a big fast road (one of the main routes into lincoln actually..) i had to slow for a truck infront waiting to turn right, made an awful noise and wouldnt stop slowing down, then i was stuck... n i mean no matter what i did i could not move the bike off the road (despite being right next to a damn layby) lets just say it took a bit of persauding and more than a bit of melted skin before i got free, i had all the tools i needed, except i used a cable tie to hold the belly pan together where i had lost a bolt, and of course i didnt think i would need to carry something to cut it with.. stupid me

oh well hopefully others will learn from our mistakes and not over adjust the push rod, for the record there needs to be at least a small amount of movement before the push rod actually applies pressure in the master cylinder (you can move the brake lever with your hand and feel if there is a little freeplay in the rod)