Air mixture scerws

Hi Guys
There are these 2 adjusting screws on the body of each injector are these mixture adjustment screws.:dunno
Should they be the same distance out :dunno
What is the base setting:dunno
Tried to find reference in the Haynes manual says nothing about them I am sure you guys would know
Done most things to it now
Ordered a moded side stand
Ordered larger clutch slave cylinder
Uprated to a 14 battery
Change brake and clutch fluids
Set throttle position sensor
Set suspension to my wieght not set damping and rebound yet as I have only ridden once
Its got race tec tyres on it but have a pair of Diablos to go on it which might be better for the colder conditions
Doing oil change to Rock Oil fully synthetic
Fitted new solenoid
Has a 43 rear sprocket
Has a twin spout blue flame with baffles out
Still debating about an air box mod or just a K & N
Cant think of much else unless you guys have anything else apart from praying for a nice dry warm summer:doug

Mick, the throttle body adjusting screws need to be set up with an exhaust gas analyser. There is no definitve answer as to the correct settings though stock they should be 1 to 1 1/4 turns out from fully seated i believe though you will need to check this. There is a difference between the two settings also. They should be in the ball park though if the bike runs correctly. An good aprilia dealer will set them up for you using Axone diagnostic equipment

Have you a 16 tooth front sprocket fitted and well as the 43 tooth rear? You'll be amazed at how much better the bike is over the standard 17 tooth.

A K&N filter alone won't make any difference other than extended service life. See Badgers or Sprockers excellent write ups on doing an airbox kit yourself if you fancy giving it ago

depends on the year Mick

Pre 2001 those bypass screws do Co and vac but post 01 or with some aftermarket eeproms they do vac only and the ecu trimmers do the Co.
setting them is a combination of the 2 as vac affects Co and vice versa.

On post 04 bikes there is no ecu trimmers again and Co is set by the bypass screws.

That appears to be the general thinking on a few Aprilia forums.

I'll be sticking in Semi when mine is up for a change. (Which is in about 500 miles)

The "Semi or Fully oil" question has been going on for as long as these bikes have been riden. The general thinking is that as long as you stick to the same formula of oil i.e semi of fully synthetic then there shouldn't be a problem with clutch slip.

15w50 semi synthetic is what is recommended by Aprilia so this is what i've always used

I've always used it in my track bike never had any clutch slip its normally if someone uses other than bike oil it will cause slip....

Mick, this is an apparent issue with RSV clutch's not bikes in general. People have experienced clutch slip immediatley after an oil change where they've filled up with fully synthetic oil

Garb says.

Everyone has his own metodh to do TB synch... from my experience I can says that vacoumn check is totally useless. That engine has to work unbalanced with the front cylinder way "stronger" than the rear.
No way to do a perfect work if your not using a good CO reading equipment. With some experience you can rouhgly set it by ear but usually that resuls in an unperfect mixture, generally too rich on both cylinders (with low mileage)

Try to set the bypass screw at 2.5 turn on the front and 1-1.5 at the rear, trick with both bypasses and the timmer on the ECU (those are very sensitive) to make the engine idling fine and regular to you ear at very low speed without the help of the idle set-screw. after test the engine in a "fast idle" condition, holding it at around 25000 rpm with the "choke" lever; the engine have to keep the speed without sneeze or missfires.

If you have CO reading equipment the work is more or less the same, a "good ear" is always needed.

Remember to do not run the engine above 90C... the ecu start to compensate the heat in excess increasing the fuel. a fan in front of the radiators or just manually start the engine fans (add a jumper on the thermostat) help to have more time.

Thanks for that it makes a lot of sense and I am more used to tuning by ear rather than machine 2.5 and 1.5 seems about where they were but least I now know THANKS