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Adjusting Pots and Air Bleed Screws??

Joined Jul 2008
207 Posts | 0+
I was reading earlier that the screws on the ECU are supposed to be at 12 o'clock stock.

What is the best way to make adjustments to these? Do I need a special tool to make the adjustments and dyno it? Should they both cylinders adjustments stay the same or does one sometimes need more adjustment?

I'm a newbie and I'm getting my bike back from the shop next week. I've never even ridden it but want to make sure it runs good.

I'm going to go with the FP 1413 Chip or Dr Rossi eventually but I still want it to run good till then.

Thanks you guys for any help.
 
Unless your Eprom activates the Fuel trim pots then turning them will do nothing . When they are tuned at the factory they activate them to get the bikes tuned to a certain state of tune not always the best for where they may shipped to then deactivated , Just be aware that the FP 1413 Chip isn't just plug & play they can take alot of tuning work to get right & even then they can still play up abit . Worst case I have heard of was one here in NZ that hadn't been tuned correctly & due to the FP Chip having a very aggresive igniton timing when it wasn't set up right & tryed to be started it kicked back which is something these chips can do when not correctly tuned & this particular bike smashed the Srag clutch out the side of the motor $$$$ .Have just posted a Review on DR Rossi's eprom which I would highly reccomend for its ease of use & excellent power delivery .:biggrin
 
If your trim pots are activated you need a gas analyser to do the adjustment. There are take off ports in the exhaust headers. If they are not activated then the best you vcan do is to balance the Throttle Bodies. You will need a set of Vacuum guages to do this. You can set them by ear and get them pretty close but Vac Guages are the best bet.
 
Do I still need to adjust my air bleed screws with a factory chip on Map 2 or it doesn't matter without the eprom that activates trim pots?

Should I take it to a dealership and get it adjusted?
 
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Do I still need to adjust my air bleed screws with a factory chip on Map 2 or it doesn't matter without the eprom that activates trim pots?

Should I take it to a dealership and get it adjusted?


Basically there is no generic "right" place to set the screws because no 2 engines fuel the same and some will have the screws set fairly different to the next depending on exhaust/filter/chip type etc etc.
You can set them at 12 o'clock in the hope that a mid way point might be somewhere close but it's pissing in the wind to be honest.

If the bike is 99/2000 on the stock chip the chances are the trimmers are inactive but any other years or aftermarket chips and they will be "live".

Get it on an analyser or leave it alone if i were you.
 
Basically there is no generic "right" place to set the screws because no 2 engines fuel the same and some will have the screws set fairly different to the next depending on exhaust/filter/chip type etc etc.
You can set them at 12 o'clock in the hope that a mid way point might be somewhere close but it's pissing in the wind to be honest.

If the bike is 99/2000 on the stock chip the chances are the trimmers are inactive but any other years or aftermarket chips and they will be "live".

Get it on an analyser or leave it alone if i were you.

Spoonz and sabre, sensei are spot on as always!!

where are ya? gimme a call book it in and i'll show ya how its done!! you'll be chuffed with the results i promise!!


griffer!!
 
Do you really need a special Aprilia part to bolt into the take off ports in the exhaust headers?? Can't I just stick an EGA probe in and bung up the hole? If I need a pair, any suggestions where to get them and how much they'll cost? Ta chaps.
 
As long as you get a unique reading from each cylinder it should be ok. The aprilia take off kit cost me about £46 but was a few years back.
 
I might go down that road, but I'm also having difficulty getting an EGA. There are some SUN DGA1800s (exhaust gas analysers) for sale on ebay which have had the calibration requirement removed. Are they any use? Or are they hopeless once out of calibration? I could just take the bike over to Griff (I've heard he does this sort of thing - where's he based?) but I like doing things myself as far as possible. Provided I'm doing a decent job, of course. The alternative would be to balance the throttle body air settings (with slight bias to the rear cylinder) and then just adjust the fuel trimpots for best idle. Or just leave them at 12 o'clock and not worry about it. I'm not looking for the perfect power, just a nicely running bike.
 
Well on the earlier bikes i had adjusted, the trim pots were quite sensitive in the sweet zone so difficult to get right. The owner (Sabre) had adjusted the bypass screws using a vac guage but the CO was still quite a ways out when we stuck it on an analyser. By ear on the bikes i did they tend to be set too rich, your mates will complain your bike smells of fuel

The slightest touch of the trimmer on the rear cylinder would jump .5% on the CO. The bikes are very sensiive to it from a low throttle smoothness point of view also. You can set it roughly and the bike might be ok or get it done properly and feel the difference.

Griff is in Tamworth by the way.
 
That's hugely helpful, Spoonz - thank you. I'll PM Griff and organise a time to go over there. I want to do the valve clearances first, so it won't be for a couple of weeks. I'll let you know how I get on. Cheers again.
 
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