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2006 tuono cut out

S

steelprunes

Joined Aug 2015
47 Posts | 2+
derby
hi fella's i wondered if any one could help me with a problem on my 2006 gen 2 tuono.
up to now the bike has run like a swiss watch but on the way home it went onto limp mode(is there such a thing on tuono?)the bike would only run up to around 60 mph and i got the service light come up. to be honest i can't remember if it had a spaner icon with it. as ive had this service light before with no problems i thought i'd switch it off and on again and it might reset it self. unfortunately it wouldn't start again,just clicking from the soleniod, wouldn't bump so i had to leave it at the roadside,hitch a lift home and go back and pick it up in the van. tried it again at the road side and it made an effort to turn over but won't start. have recharged the battery and it read 13.2v. will try will the engine running and at 3000 rpm as advised by aprillia performance.
would a battery just die like that? or am i looking at an alternator or reg rec? is there anyway of testing?
thanks for any advice
cheers mi awd
 
just put a meter across the battery getting 12.5 switched of, 12.4 at tickover and the same at 3000rpm although there is fluctuations in the readings at 3000 rpm going to 13.4v
does this mean anything to anybody???
cheers mi awds
 
Normally... when you get a lower reading when it's running than not.... tiz a charging issue..... but your fluctuation seems odd.

Disconnect the brown connector behind the coolant tank and check the 3 "pairs" voltage. (On the stator end)
If the brown connector shows signs of heat damage it could be just that... put a meter across the 3 pairs at around 4k.... if they are not all around 60v then it will probably be the stator...

If all is well there... then move on to the rectifier...
 
Last edited:
thanks for the replies, i shall try felix's idea first. if the stator is fooked is it an easy job/expensive?
 
If your mechanically minded its an easy enough job to do cost wise around £150.00-£200 for parts if you go for none Aprilia bits
 
pulled the brown connector off, it had welded itself together so broke a bit off it getting it apart! covered in **** one of the conectors was totally black and had melted the outer case wire and the block.
tried to measure it but only managed 0.5v so i guess its fooked. taking it to griff to diagnose thursday week
thanks chaps for all your input
ciao!
 
Assuming ya meter is on AC,

What were the 3 pair readings out of interest ?

ie :

1 & 2
1 & 3
2 & 3

Just curious...
 
took the bike to griff today and yes the stator is toast, readings were 0.5, 0,0.5 should have been 45- 55a if working ok.
now, for a replacement stator, rotor,gasket.oil and filter comes to the princely sum of £1200 with labour!
griff is adamant that rewound coils don't last more than a 100 miles but my question is this:
the bike has had this stator in for 12 years and done around 17000 miles. if i can find somebody to rewind the stator so it discharges the right ampege why would that not last for another 10 years?
 
AFAIK the only known long term fix is the replacement Aprilia Rotor / Stator. (it produces a lower 370w, instead of 500w - so much less heat).

You can get your stator rewound, or there are a number of after market stators available of the shelf. (just google stator aprilia tuono...) - no guarantee on how long they last, seems to vary quite a bit.

My original Ape stator lasted 21k, i replaced that with a "Ricks" stator which only lasted 12k - I have just put another Ricks stator on it but who knows how long that will last.....
 
ok thanks for all your advice guys.
one last question then i'll put this thread to bed!
if a standard stator winding puts out around 60v, if i had the stator rewound to put out less voltage would that make the stator last longer as it would potentially put out less heat (maybe!!) would it still put out enough charge to keep the battery charged.
as above thanks for all your answers!
andy
 
Alas its not that easy.

The issue is the Rotor not the stator (far too much magnetism). I think westcountry windings tried using a thicker wire on the stator (therefore less turns and less voltage) but it still fails.

If you want a long term / permanent fix -then it is the revised Ape Rotor/ Stator route.

If you want a quick / cheaper fix then buy an aftermarket stator...... fit that - and take your chances as to how long it lasts. I think this is what most do.

BTW - make sure you change your oil (and filter) whatever you do as it will have been fried when your stator let go.....
 
plus one with the oil and filter change :thumbup mine smelt like chip fat !!

the replacement stator I fitted (electro sport) is actually smaller in o/d than the original -therefore making the air/oil gap between the rotor and stator bigger .

hopefully partly addressing the problem .
 
hilift said:
plus one with the oil and filter change :thumbup mine smelt like chip fat !!

the replacement stator I fitted (electro sport) is actually smaller in o/d than the original -therefore making the air/oil gap between the rotor and stator bigger .

hopefully partly addressing the problem .
Click to expand...

Like the idea of the smaller od on the stator.... keep us posted how it goes !

:)
 
:)

did you measure the voltage after you fit it ?

Checked mine after fitting the Ricks stator and it seems quite hight ( around 75v at 3k)
 
ok then, got the stator off and I would very much like to meet the person who thought it would be a great idea to route the stator cable through all the oil tubes! I would very much like to warmly shake him by the neck or use him as a repository for my screwdrivers!!! once again your left asking " aprillia , what were you thinking of!!" i would post a picture of said stator but i guess you've all seen a black stator before!.
 
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