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2001 Mille R troubles...

Joined Feb 2011
23 Posts | 0+
Wiltshire
Morning all!
I bought a 2001 Mille R a month or so ago, and whilst it's an absolutely awesome bike (and a hell of an upgrade from an SV650 :biggrin) i've found a few problems with it.

The first thing I noticed is that there's fork oil leaking from between the fork cap and the preload adjuster. It's not pissing out but it lightly mists out when going over bumps and over a while the tops of the forks end up covered in oil. I've seen the exploded diagram of the ohlins R&T forks, I haven't got the diagram with me but iirc it's item number 17 (o-ring) that I need to replace. Does anyone know where I can get these from?

Secondly the clutch seems to be slipping on anything over 6000rpm and 3/4 throttle, even in 5th and 6th gears. It appears to be worse when it's warm outside as it hardly does it in the mornings unless I really give it the beans! I know the span adjuster on the lever doesn't change the actuation travel on the master cylinder but it's the same on all 4 settings anyway. What else should I be checking? The reservoir has plenty of fluid in it.
I've searched the forum for clutch slip problems and i've read that it could be one of many things like using fully-synth oil, having the wrong size jet in the clutch housing (?), faulty slave cylinder etc. To be honest I don't really know where to start when it comes to troubleshooting!

Any help would be much appreciated :thumbup
Cheers
Mike
 
Hi Mike, re clutch problem the fluid breaks downs down very quickly on all rsv's it looks black in the resivoir when its no longer any good which happens within about 3 weeks! try fresh clutch fluid- bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder pump most of the black fluid out and then keep topping up the resivoir and pumping through until you get fresh fluid coming out of the bleed pipe! new fluid has always made my (had a tuono and rsv) clutch much better less slipping and easier to find neutral! Also check if your lever has any free play, you need a couple of mill gap before the plunger contacts the master cylinder! there is an aduster on the plunger to do this, altering the wheel adjuster only adjusts the span to accomodate big or small finger reach! it wont stop the plunger pressing on the master cylinder. Its a chore but changing the clutch fluid every month will make your clutch feel/work much better. Enjoy your millie mate!
 
Ahh excellent, thanks a lot for that mate! I'll give it a go tomorrow and hopefully report back with some good news :thumbup

Cheers!
 
Hi chap. I would forget the clutch jet and almost cetainly fluid for a slipping issue. Neither will make the clutch slip in the way your does, drag yes which can affect neutral selection but not slip. The clutch plate grip is entirely mechanical and friction from the clutch springs pulling them together. The fluid performance would just affect plate seperation as does the jet as too much oil in the clutch causes drag between the plates, hence smaller jet, less drag, better neutral selection. Re the blackening it will happen very quickly no matter which fluid you use. It has nothing to do with the degradation of the fluid, it's aluminium contamination from the internals of the M/C and slave. Try polishing aluminium and it gives off a black residue. That is what happens when your pistion is polishing the bore of the M/C as it goes up and down. It happens much more quickly on the clutch because the pistons in the M/C and slave does a full stroke of the bore every time you use the clutch, the brakes only about a 1/3 on average so the process is much much slower.

The slip will almost certainly be glazed steel plates in the clutch or maybe a switch from semi to full synth oil. Both fairly easily resolved. (Rough the steels if they look blueish glazed with wet and dry)

The fork cap seal is an or ring which is compressed by a washer to seal the cap. i had a leak on mine and on pulling the caps of both sides apar i found the washer was actaully a diffferent size on each cap and one side was thin enough that the nut that holds it in place ran out of thread before it compressed the o ring. I replaced the washer and all fixed.
There is nothing special about the o ring and you should pick one up similar locally to you from a car parts supplier or similar.
 
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