2 questions

ian11 · May 12, 2012

00' Mille R

How do you get the rear downpipes off....I know the rad maybe has to either be dropped or removed to get to the front.....I did search and "google it" but didnt find what I'l looking for

When moving off from cold....should you need to rev to 15-1800 to get it into 1st to stop the engine cutting out....when warmed it's fine

apostrophe · May 12, 2012

ian1 said:
00' Mille R

When moving off from cold....should you need to rev to 15-1800 to get it into 1st to stop the engine cutting out....when warmed it's fine

My Mille will go into first at idle speed (1200-1300) with engine cold (<40C) without cutting out (stalling).

Rob

ian11 · May 12, 2012

Do you know what's causing it, the shop said all big twins normaly do it....I thought he was talking bollox, but didnt argue cause I didnt know

Sorry I've allready asked about this...didnt realise

How do you remove the rear downpipe

gazandjen · May 12, 2012

To remove the front you don't need to take the rads off. Just use a wratchet with an extension. As for the rear, I found it F.ckn difficult then realised I didn't have to take it off as the falco downpipe was the same for the rear.

Sensei · May 12, 2012

My 03R rear header & front header both had to be removed as the Falco collector system would'nt fit up to them so replaced them with the complete Falco system .. No the Falco rear header that came with my full system is very differnent hence why it woud not fit up

a15cro · May 12, 2012

I took the rear shock off and it gave me easier access.

eddievtwin 7 · May 13, 2012

before pulling away pull the clutch lever in and out several times with the engine running the plates might be sticking together so causing clutch drag

Eddie

ian11 · May 13, 2012

gazandjen said:
To remove the front you don't need to take the rads off. Just use a wratchet with an extension. As for the rear, I found it F.ckn difficult then realised I didn't have to take it off as the falco downpipe was the same for the rear.

Sensei said:
My 03R rear header & front header both had to be removed as the Falco collector system would'nt fit up to them so replaced them with the complete Falco system .. No the Falco rear header that came with my full system is very differnent hence why it woud not fit up

a15cro said:
I took the rear shock off and it gave me easier access.

Ok...but no one's said what they did to get the rear off...apart from, taking the shock off and "fkn difficult"......it looks as though the flange is behind the frame tube, I'll take the side panel off and see what's what

eddievtwin 7 said:
before pulling away pull the clutch lever in and out several times with the engine running the plates might be sticking together so causing clutch drag

Eddie

I did that, but no joy....as per my other post, I'll bleed it first and take it from there.....I'll also check that jet and put the number 40 (or what it is) in

Sensei · May 13, 2012

Rear Header - Lift tanks & remove it to the side this allows you to get to the top nut on the header.. Then you will need to buy a 1/4" swivel joint & long extenstion to get to the othe 2 lower nuts ... they are bit tricky to get the socket onto & make sure you have it on squarelly & fully or you will round the nuts head off & then you will have a problem ... Did mine in 15min including putting the tank back into place >>

flatlander · May 13, 2012

Re I st gear my falco goes in at much lower revs completely recommend clutch jet change also what sprockets and what oil do you use

ian11 · May 13, 2012

Sensei said:
Rear Header - Lift tanks & remove it to the side this allows you to get to the top nut on the header.. Then you will need to buy a 1/4" swivel joint & long extenstion to get to the othe 2 lower nuts ... they are bit tricky to get the socket onto & make sure you have it on squarelly & fully or you will round the nuts head off & then you will have a problem ... Did mine in 15min including putting the tank back into place >>

:thumbup

flatlander said:
Re I st gear my falco goes in at much lower revs completely recommend clutch jet change also what sprockets and what oil do you use

Dont know havent changed it yet (only got it just over 2 weeks ago from stealer) will do it this week though.....will look at sprocket too

crowtree · May 13, 2012

Good advice guys the rear ones are an arse to get at I used a short socket with a swivel joint and a extension bar its fiddley and you can only get about 1/8th of a turn but you can do it just make sure the socket is fully home as if you rounded them off you will have a serious problem, dont rush it ! do a bit, swig ya tea do a bit more ha ha

redratbike · May 13, 2012

Why you aking off the downpipes for:.thought you didnt like the bike anld now you are changing it

As for riding,very rarely ride till the COLD warning is off

ian11 · May 13, 2012

Fun :biggrin

I didnt say I didnt like them (well I dont think I did)....I like it very much, but I'm trying gel pads as the seat's causing me discomfort, and after talking to cowelly, I'm trying 2 pads he has, and all going well 1 (or both) will work for me before selling the bike (as last resort)

And yes I dont take off till at least 40-60c

apostrophe · May 13, 2012

flatlander said:
Re I st gear my falco goes in at much lower revs completely recommend clutch jet change also what sprockets and what oil do you use

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but how can stuff like sprocket (size) have any impact on the ability to engage first with the bike standing still?

Rob

RSV_Ecosse · May 13, 2012

When I start mine for the first time of the day I'll usually leave it sat on the drive till it is up to around 60 deg ish before setting off. Only time I'll start it and head off sharpish when "COLD" is still flashing is if I'm off out to a day shift at 6.45am. I don't believe its right to subject the neighbours to the tunes of the twin Renegades at that time of the morning. So in those instances I'll fire her up, leave it idling for a few mins until I get my lid on and done up, gloves on etc and then drop the idle speed lever down till it is a tad above normal tickover. Then I'll move off. Snicking in to first is a bit clunky and the bike sometimes does a tiny lurch forward a bit but I've if you get the lever set right it shouldn't stall. By the time I've got down the street, turned on to the main road and reached the next roundabout I can knock off the fast idle lever down to completely off.

2 questions

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