Custom Map on Gen1

Hi guys,

I took my Gen1 Tuono to Jordan Bikes for a custom map setup after fitting the Forzaaprilia chip. I had previously installed a zero map into the PC3, so the chip was controlling the fueling with no input from the PC3.

I felt that the bike was running pretty good, but wanted to get the AFR set up, and also to see how the power curve was looking.

Josh (technician ) carried out an initial run to see what needed adjusting (if anything). The main thing was running rich above 8,500rpm. The secondary thing was a flat spot about 4,000rpm.

After about an hour and all adjustments finished, Josh did a final power run. The difference in the AFR was really noticeable and was very stable, I was really impressed. The power curve was smoother (still a slight flat spot at about 4,500 rpm but less than b4).

The power was 116.5 bhp
Torque was 72.2 ft lb

This was my first opportunity to hear the bike on full chat with this can on, (sounds good on the driveway) but sounds fu**ing gorgeous on full chat on the dyno - - bloody awesome. :clap:clap:clap :bigsmile

Cheers :cheers Gray :doug

Fugly said:

Hi Gray,
That all sounds like an enjoyable time with many enjoyable miles ahead.

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It may sound daft, but once you see & hear your bike performing well on the dyno like that it leaves you feeling very confident that you have a good machine under you, which means you can concentrate on enjoying the bike & ride. :doug

Gray :cheers

Firking said:

My 04 factory has 124 and 84lb/ft on 2 different dynos with a Gabro chip k and n full akra system

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Nice numbers m8.........I have a feeling that this might turn into a numbers game. :deal

Is it working again now........ only joking, it's as they say tho' size isn't everything :lol

Gray :hehe

Paul,

To access the ECU is dead easy. Remove rider seat, ECU is behind seat in a compartment covered with a black/grey rubber cover. Lift off the cover. There are two multiway connectors on the front of the ECU, these detach very easily. I personally disconnect the battery first, not sure if this is absolutely necessary. Once the two connectors have been removed the ECU can be slid out from behind the seat.
The ECU is held together with 4 small Philips screws, however I woud suggest wearing rubber gloves to counteract the effects of any static that may have built up. Once the lid has been removed from the ECU, the "chip" will be obvious.
The chip should have an ID code on it, the ID will identify which chip you have, you just need to ask the forum and someone will let you know which chip you have.

If you disconnected the battery you will have to reset your dash (clock / rev limit / mph etc).

Gray

I have a 16t front and 43t rear........I didn't want to go from 17t to 15t at the front so I added one on the back. This keeps chain size pretty much the same.

Gray