Hey guys! So I became impatient waiting for a solution to bypass the immobilizer and really didn’t want to spend the money on new electronics so I took the immobilizer circuit board out of its case hoping to find a problem and did! I believe this will solve the immobilizer issue without having to bypass it. Here is how I resolved the situation.
I used a dremel to cut through the hard plastic exterior and, with my hands and jewellers tools, peeled the silicone from the board. This has to be done carefully as you’ll be very close to small circuit components. Two things happened to me, one you can easily get at the soldering points for all wires leading to the immobilizer unit and can confirm their contact, two both a resistor and a capacitor were very loose. I took the board to my local computer repair shop and got them to solder the resistor and capacitor strongly to the board. I was informed that that specific capacitor was known to be faulty. After ordering a new one and attaching it to the board(in the correct orientation) everything worked. I plugged the unit back into the bike and she fired right up. From my understanding the faulty capacitor is the source of all the immobilizer’s problems.
So you don’t mix up capacitors, because there are three on the board, it’s ratings are- 16micro farads, 10v, 3.52ohms. Or it’s the smallest of the three. I recommend looking your board to confirm the ratings.
I hope this helps!
I used a dremel to cut through the hard plastic exterior and, with my hands and jewellers tools, peeled the silicone from the board. This has to be done carefully as you’ll be very close to small circuit components. Two things happened to me, one you can easily get at the soldering points for all wires leading to the immobilizer unit and can confirm their contact, two both a resistor and a capacitor were very loose. I took the board to my local computer repair shop and got them to solder the resistor and capacitor strongly to the board. I was informed that that specific capacitor was known to be faulty. After ordering a new one and attaching it to the board(in the correct orientation) everything worked. I plugged the unit back into the bike and she fired right up. From my understanding the faulty capacitor is the source of all the immobilizer’s problems.
So you don’t mix up capacitors, because there are three on the board, it’s ratings are- 16micro farads, 10v, 3.52ohms. Or it’s the smallest of the three. I recommend looking your board to confirm the ratings.
I hope this helps!