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broken bolt extractor...help!

Joined Apr 2012
16 Posts | 0+
Ok guys...
now forgive me...I've had stuck bolts before and always did my best not to make things any worse...but it looks like in this case I've definitely buggered things up a bit.
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Case in point:
'01 RSV Mille R engine oil drain plug number 2. This one sits higher up than the base of the oil pan (where the first oil drain plug is)but its still recommended to drain them both. Mine was installed by Arnold Swarzennager. It was a 6mm hex head bolt which wouldn't budge so I hammered in a T-style screw extractor, and, as you can see from the photo, snapped the screw extractor.

Now what?

one of these maybe?
The Original Rescue Bit - YouTube

The engine has been drained of (most of its) oil, so filling it with oil to run it and warm it would definitely throw away a few litres of oil. Because I've clearly made things worse I'm tempted to take it to a machinist, but I'm this far in and I want to learn more about stuck/stripped screw/bolt extraction.

I'm told screw extractors are made out of unubtainium and are therefore hard to drill out...and the whole dremel off the head, score a flathead slot and use a screwdriver idea seems comical since it's obvious torque didn't do the job, so I can't imagine a screwdriver saving the day.

So...Help?
 

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Ok, it looks like it's quite a big head on the bolt, and it will be tight because it's slightly seized, not because it's over tightened, so you have options
1. Warm the bolt and surrounding metal, the get a nice sharp centre pop and make a pop mark near the edge of the head. Then lean the centre pop over and try to punch the bolt head round (anticlockwise obviously)
2. If this fails a last resort would be to find a local engineer who can tig weld a bar or bolt to your seized one so you can unscrew it.

Good luck.

Miff
 
Yep as Miff says I would go with the centre punch, don't have to move it much just break the seal as it were, then get some mole grips or what ever grips you can get on in to undo it, I've done it loads of times on different nuts, bolts etc, and not had to use any heat when I've done it, would prob help though if yer fancy it.
 
Had a simular issue recently in same area. Tried PBblaster, tried heat, & tried eZOut with no luck.
Ended up taking a chizel to it to make a sold indent. Then I put a large flat head socket on the end of my impact/hammer gun, said a big prayer and let her rip. Spun right off after a few hits from the gun.
Next step would have been drilling it out since welding in that tight area would have been very tough.
 
success!
Now...anyone know the part number and a source for this little monkey?

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it's the secondary drain plug, seems to have a little magnet fixed to the end...
 

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and thanks again to all who helped...it was so seized that even with heat and PBlaster the centre punch was just digging thru the head of the bolt instead of turning it. But I gave it a few, dead-straight whacks with a drift and I think that busted it loose.
 
and thanks again to all who helped...it was so seized that even with heat and PBlaster the centre punch was just digging thru the head of the bolt instead of turning it. But I gave it a few, dead-straight whacks with a drift and I think that busted it loose.
Great news, can't beat a bit of brute force sometimes.

Miff
 
I replaced mine with a KTM plug.
It uses an ordinary 14mm hex head and comes out easy with a spanner/socket.
About £10 iirc.
 

Mine was too. Found out when doing an oil change today that one of the previous owners had rounded out the hex on the engine drain bolt.
I had prevously read this thread so knew they were prone to rounding.
Removed mine with an easyout.
I hit the easyout quite hard directly on the end with a nylon mallet while I put pressure on to unscrew it with a spanner.

Sucess View attachment 5330

Now going to order the KTM part mentioned above

Jeff
 

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