Joined Jun 2021
8 Posts | 2+
CA
Late to the Tuono game, but in any case looked into rearsets, ones that would include relocating the MC behind the pedal.
To be fair, I am an engineer by trade, possibly a bit OCD in my research, no matter how obscure.
I saw a ton of negative comments about the Danmoto product. But after even more research, IMO, most of the problems I saw were related to the installer not being a super mechanical kind of guy, or not having tools to “massage” things, which is not a crime.
My eyes were showing what looked to be a reasonably engineered product with the features I wanted, and there were hints of an “updated” design “Someone who is handy in the garage, and a mechanical thinker would have an easier go of it”, I told myself.
At $116 US dollars (delivered to my door) I bit.
I was prepared for absolute junk.
Figured I get some useable items.
Hoped for good stuff.
They arrived in 4 days. Documentation provided said they were in fact the updated 2012 version.
“Relocates MC” – “Levers run on two ball bearings each” - “Mounting bracket for stock brake light switch included” - “Fasteners all Stainless steel, no cheap Mild Steel (sic)” – “Bracket to relocate Brake reservoir NOT included”
At worst I would have some nice machined “artwork” to put on a stand to polish every once in a while. I don’t have disposable income, but how bad could they be, REALLY? Some folks are happy out there!
This is a collection of thoughts regarding my install, and the tinkering needed to get them on cleanly.
6065 Billet Aluminum (Danmoto) vs. 7075 Billet Aluminum ($500-$600 Sets)?
6065 billet is considered more “ductile” or softer, while the 7075 of the higher end stuff ultimately is stronger and has a higher surface harness.. The caveat is that 7075 is also more brittle. Under ultimate strain, 7075 will tend to snap off, where 6065 will tend to bend but stay intact.
Loctite #42 of course. Every single screw was delivered hand tight, necessitating complete disassembly to place the threadlocker, which, I enjoyed, gave me a chance to inspect closely, and for all intents “build and assemble” the rearsets onto the bike, as I carefully chose for me the improved and desired positioning. (A little back – 10mm, a little up + 10mm)
Rear MC positioning – really a problem?
Nope. What appeared to be a problem (poor angle of entry) was simply that the threaded portion going into the clevis was too long. Shortened it by 1/4” to get a direct shot into the MC. Leave nut in place, spin it so it is closer to the push end” or the rod, then cut ¼” off of the shaft, using a hacksaw or grinder. Then back the nut off to re-thread the first threads on shaft. Thread back into the clevis. Cake.
Re-Mount Reservoir after relocation of MC. I took a piece of scrap aluminum, shaped it with some snips and sanded the edges and drilled two holes. No expense. 2 minutes of thinking. 5 minutes work.
Standard Pattern or GP shift?
The lever at the shift shaft is designed with two mounting holes for the rod, on for std, one for GP position. I chose standard for now, although I tested the GP pattern, and it too was smooth operating.
Overall, they took some fiddling, but nothing a mechanical person with tools can't handle.
I really like them. For $116, a steal in my eyes. In 200 miles nothing has come loose. I am experiencing no grip issues, actually had some rain on the way to work today.
I'll report if anything goes wrong, but all indications are good so far. Must be that "update" way back in 2012 !
To be fair, I am an engineer by trade, possibly a bit OCD in my research, no matter how obscure.
I saw a ton of negative comments about the Danmoto product. But after even more research, IMO, most of the problems I saw were related to the installer not being a super mechanical kind of guy, or not having tools to “massage” things, which is not a crime.
My eyes were showing what looked to be a reasonably engineered product with the features I wanted, and there were hints of an “updated” design “Someone who is handy in the garage, and a mechanical thinker would have an easier go of it”, I told myself.
At $116 US dollars (delivered to my door) I bit.
I was prepared for absolute junk.
Figured I get some useable items.
Hoped for good stuff.
They arrived in 4 days. Documentation provided said they were in fact the updated 2012 version.
“Relocates MC” – “Levers run on two ball bearings each” - “Mounting bracket for stock brake light switch included” - “Fasteners all Stainless steel, no cheap Mild Steel (sic)” – “Bracket to relocate Brake reservoir NOT included”
At worst I would have some nice machined “artwork” to put on a stand to polish every once in a while. I don’t have disposable income, but how bad could they be, REALLY? Some folks are happy out there!
This is a collection of thoughts regarding my install, and the tinkering needed to get them on cleanly.
6065 Billet Aluminum (Danmoto) vs. 7075 Billet Aluminum ($500-$600 Sets)?
6065 billet is considered more “ductile” or softer, while the 7075 of the higher end stuff ultimately is stronger and has a higher surface harness.. The caveat is that 7075 is also more brittle. Under ultimate strain, 7075 will tend to snap off, where 6065 will tend to bend but stay intact.
Loctite #42 of course. Every single screw was delivered hand tight, necessitating complete disassembly to place the threadlocker, which, I enjoyed, gave me a chance to inspect closely, and for all intents “build and assemble” the rearsets onto the bike, as I carefully chose for me the improved and desired positioning. (A little back – 10mm, a little up + 10mm)
Rear MC positioning – really a problem?
Nope. What appeared to be a problem (poor angle of entry) was simply that the threaded portion going into the clevis was too long. Shortened it by 1/4” to get a direct shot into the MC. Leave nut in place, spin it so it is closer to the push end” or the rod, then cut ¼” off of the shaft, using a hacksaw or grinder. Then back the nut off to re-thread the first threads on shaft. Thread back into the clevis. Cake.
Re-Mount Reservoir after relocation of MC. I took a piece of scrap aluminum, shaped it with some snips and sanded the edges and drilled two holes. No expense. 2 minutes of thinking. 5 minutes work.
Standard Pattern or GP shift?
The lever at the shift shaft is designed with two mounting holes for the rod, on for std, one for GP position. I chose standard for now, although I tested the GP pattern, and it too was smooth operating.
Overall, they took some fiddling, but nothing a mechanical person with tools can't handle.
I really like them. For $116, a steal in my eyes. In 200 miles nothing has come loose. I am experiencing no grip issues, actually had some rain on the way to work today.
I'll report if anything goes wrong, but all indications are good so far. Must be that "update" way back in 2012 !
